MortarandPestle.net - Your Online Soapmaking Manual
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Floating
Soap
To make Floating Soap like Ivory, add approximately one
tablespoon of sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) to your soap mixture after you've
added almost of the lye.
Soap will also float if bubbles happen to occur
in your soap during the mixing stage (just before pouring). My first batch of
kitchen soap not only looked like ivory, but it floated like ivory and I didn't
use an additive.

There are a wide variety of additives used in cold process soapmaking that offer specific qualities to homemade soaps.
An appealing scent, gentle texture, beautiful color, and extra moisturizing
properties are among the qualities we strive for that can greatly improve your
finished product.
Aloe Vera Gel
Aloe vera gel is a substance expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant and is said to have potent anti-inflammatory,
healing, hydrating, and soothing properties.
Benzoin Absolute
This is used as a fixative for fragrances in soaps.
Follow manufacturer's instructions and use use sparingly as
some people may react to this.
Borax
Borax is a white crystalline mineral that is
composed of sodium, boron, oxygen and water. It has fungicide, preservative,
insecticide, herbicide and disinfecting properties and is used as a water
softener and laundry product.
Butters
While butters can be added to total base
oils in cold process soapmaking, they are often added to a formulation at trace
for emolliency (moisturizing) properties.
Calendula Flowers
This is added
to help soften dry skin.
Cinnamon
Cinnamon is an additive commonly used as a
natural deodorizer that also has antiseptic properties. Cinnamon is used in it's
grounded form to makes for a dark and spicy soap. Large amounts can cause skin
irritation.
Clay
There are a variety of
clays to choose from, Bentonite, Rhassoul and Glacial to name a few.
They are commonly added to draw out excess oil from the skin. Pictured to the left
is micronized Rhassoul Clay. Please visit my Clays and Muds page on our Spa Subsite for more
detailed information about clays, including uses in soapmaking.
Colors
Spices, herbs, liquid colors, and pigments
are among additives that are used to color soaps. FD&C colors are approved
for use in food, drugs and cosmetics and D&C colors are only approved for
use in drugs and cosmetics. When added to toiletry products, most colors are
true, but in products like cold-process soaps, the effects may vary.
Essential Oils
Also known as volatile oils, ethereal
oils, essences and absolutes; essential oils are highly concentrated extracts of
the flowers, leaves, petals or berries of fragrant botanicals. Essential oils
have superior scent retention and are very powerful. Many are beneficial, but
some can be extremely harmful. They are however, preferred over fragrance oils
in soapmaking because they are less likely to affect saponification and seize
soap.
Problems may occur in soapmaking when using citrus essential oils, so it
is recommended that they be added sparingly. Always conduct research on an
essential oil you are considering for your cosmetic or toiletry products. There
are a few great books out there or visit our
links page for suppliers who provide you with all the information you
need.
Exfoliants
Exfoliants added to cold process soapmaking include oatmeal,
almond meal, yellow cornmeal, wheat germ, cranberry seeds, and brans, among
others.
Exfoliants are a substance of
texture
used to slough off dirt and dead cells from the surface of the
skin. Visit our glossary page for more information.
Fragrance Oils
Fragrance oils are man-made fragrances and are usually less expensive.
Essential oils are sometimes included in fragrance formulations, but fragrance
oils offer greater options by creating scents that are unavailable in essential
oils. Fragrance oils are often more successfully used in the soap rebatching or
melt and pour process, but some can also be used successfully in cold process
soaps. Often, suppliers will test the fragrances they offer for compatibility in
soapmaking. Pine Meadows is a fragrance supplier who offers this information.
You can find them on our
links page
. Conduct the proper
research before purchasing fragrance oils. Various fragrance oils may also
affect saponification and can actually ruin what would otherwise have been a
perfectly good batch of soap.
Herbs
An herb is a plant
or plant part that is valued for its medicinal, aromatic, or
savory properties. Most often, dried herbs are added to melt and pour soaps as the
chemical reaction in cold process soapmaking can compromise the properties of
herbs including color, scent, and texture. Check with your soapmaking supplier if you have
any questions as to the effectiveness of a dried herb in cold
process soapmaking.
Visit our Herbs Page
for ideas on how to incorporate them into your soaps to add color and
texture.
Picture: I have just ground
Chamomile flowers in my Mortar and Pestle to add to my Chamomile Rose herbal
soap batch.
Kelp
This is
best added in powdered form. Creates a slippery soap with a mildly "fishy"
scent. This additive is rich in iodine, vitamins and minerals.
Lemons
Lemons can be added in
liquid form as in fresh or reconstituted juice, or the peel can be grated and
used as an abrasive. Fresh lemon peels or lemon peel powder have antibacterial
properties and vitamin C.
Milk
Milk is
often added at trace in many forms including powdered, fresh, or canned and adds
to a milder bar of soap. Caprylic acid in goats milk helps to adjust the pH in
soaps by reducing the alkalinity.
Natural Colorants
Alkanet root
provides a range in color of blue and purple shades, coffee and cinnamon add
brown shades, ground rosehips add reddish shades and sea clay adds green shades.
Additives that will not lose their color include sunflower petals, rosemary and
calendula. Natural colorants provide earthy tones, so don't expect bright colors
in your finished product. These can be obtained using synthetic pigments and
dyes for almost any color you can imagine.

Oatmeal
Oatmeal is a common additive in cold process soapmaking. Oatmeal is
most often added at trace after it has been ground and blended with olive or
another base oil. It is used to exfoliate and soothe sensitive or irritated
skin.
Rosemary Extract
Rosemary extract is also known as nature's best antioxidant
and is a good choice for treating oils that are prone to spoilage. This is a
powerful oil-soluble antioxidant used at only 0.1 percent of total ingredients.
Like other antioxidants, it inhibits and fights free radicals. Recent studies
show that rosemary extract, and its constituents "carnosol and ursollic acid",
enhance the activity of enzymes that can detoxify carcinogens.
Rosemary Oil
The oil of rosemary
is not to be confused with rosemary extract. Rosemary oil possesses powerful
antibacterial and antifungal properties that includes antimicrobial
activity against many molds and bacteria. Used in soaps to help in the treatment
of comedones (pimples, whiteheads, blackheads) and acne.
Sugar
Sugar is often used in
recipes for making clear soap. We also love using sugar scrubs for the softest
skin ever.
Salt
Salt is
used by commercial soapmakers to separate glycerin from their soaps.
Tea Tree Oil
Tea Tree Oil is a
powerful antiseptic, anti-fungal, anti-viral, insect repellant that is used to
treat a variety of skin and other conditions. It has remarkable soothing and
antibacterial properties, but may irritate the skin in some people.
Natural Deodorizers
Coffee,
cinnamon, and lemon essential oil are among the additives commonly used as
natural deodorizers.
Emollients
Glycerin, aloe vera, honey, cocoa butter, mango butter, and
olive butter are among the additive and ingredients used to add emolliency in
cold-process soapmaking.