W

walnut extract
Bronzing agent that creates a natural-looking tan color. Antiseptic hulls fight parasites and skin problems such as eczema and psoriasis.

walnut oil
Medium light oil that leaves a luxurious silky feel on skin.

water
The most widely used cosmetic ingredient that is almost always listed first on an ingredient label, as it is usually the ingredient with the highest concentration. Yet, despite claims of the skin’s need for hydration and the claims regarding the special type of water used, it turns out that water may be an important ingredient for skin. Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for softness and pliability in this part of the epidermis.

water-binding agent
Wide range of ingredients that help the skin retain water. Glycerin is one of the more typical and effective water-binding agents used in cosmetics. One group of water-binding agents can mimic the skin’s actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation. They include ceramide, lecithin, glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids, glycospingolipids, and glycosaminoglycans. No single on is preferred over the other because while they are all effective, none can permanently change the structure of skin.

water-resistant
Repels moisture or water. Not readily removed with water.

water-soluble
Capable of being dissolved in water.

waxes
In their most common form, wax esters consist of fatty acids esterified to long-chain alcohols with similar chain-lengths. The latter tend to be saturated or have just one double bond. Such compounds are found in animal, plant and microbial tissues and they have a variety of functions, such as acting as energy stores, waterproofing and even echo-location.

wetting agent
A substance that reduces the surface tension of a liquid, causing the liquid to spread across or penetrate the surface of a solid more easily. Detergents and soaps generally accomplish this with water.

wheat oligosaccharides
Conditioner for hair and skin and an effective moisturizer.

whitehead
Also known as a closed comedone. A collection of sebum and keratin that plugs the opening of the pilosebaceous unit “skin pore” and imbeds itself in the follicular canal under the skin so that it looks like a raised, white bump.

willow bark extract
A source of salicin, the chemical that lead to the introduction of aspirin, considered to be the natural form and origin of the modern day aspirin. An anti-inflammatory agent delivered to skin cells in liposomes that enhance penetration through the epidermis. Causes a mild keratolytic effect making it an excellent ingredient for acne treatment products.

witch hazel
Witch hazel is a common household ingredient that is used to treat bruises, swelling and varicose veins. The astringent and anti-inflammatory actions of this herb can be used to help stop bleeding, both internally and externally. It is useful in the easing of hemorrhoids. Witch hazel will control diarrhea and aid in the easing of dysentery.

X

xantham gum
A high molecular polysaccharide excretion product from bacteria “xanthomas campetris” composed of glucose, mannose and glucuronic acid. A thickener and emulsifier derived from corn sugar that forms a gel when mixed with water. Preferred over the other gum powders in thickening creams for its smoother texture. Use rate is roughly .3% of the water phase in an emulsion. Widely used in food products.

xanthene
Large class of certified colorants. The acids are derived from fluorescein. The quinoid acid type is presented by FD&C Red No 3, erythrosine, used often in lipsticks. The phenolic formulations, often called bromo acids are represented by D&C Red No. 2, used to stain lips. The only basic type certified is D&C Red No. 19, also called rhodamine B.

xerosis
Refers to dry skin.

Y

yara yara “methoxy naphthalene”
Leaflets from ether used in the manufacture of cosmetics as a solvent.

yeast
A fungi that produces enzymes converting sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. Used in skin conditions. No known toxicity.

yeast extract
Derived from yeast, this extract is an excellent humectant and may also aid in reducing hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin biosynthesis.

Z

zinc
Zinc is essential to the synthesis of DNA and RNA, of proteins, insulin and sperm. The body needs zinc to metabolize carbohydrates, fats, protein and alcohol. Also necessary to dispose of carbon dioxide and make good use of vitamin A. More than seventy different enzymes require zinc to do their appointed work. Zinc bolsters the immune system and makes wounds heal faster. It is integral to the growth and maintenance of body tissues and plays a major role in the development of fetuses and the growth of children.

zinc chloride
Also called “butter of zinc”, this is a compound that is sometimes used in escharotic skin creams and salves for the treatment of skin cancer and other dermal and epidermal conditions. Zinc chloride assists in the absorption of the herbal nutrients active ingredients of this formulation through the dermal layer and into the bloodstream.

zinc oleate-stearate
A white greasy powder that is soluble in alcohol, but not water and used as an antiseptic in cosmetic creams. Also used to treat eczema and other skin rashes.

zinc peroxide “zinc superoxide”
A white powder used as a disinfectant, antiseptic, deodorant and astringent or applied as a dusting powder alone or with talc. Liberates hydrogen peroxide, a bleach.

zinc pyrithione “zinc pyridinethione”
An active ingredient in dandruff shampoos with actions that include cytotoxic and antifungal. This ingredient may have side effects and is not approved by the FDA.

zinc oxide
An oxide of zinc, used as an astringent used to protect, soothe and heal the skin. Also provides good skin protection.

zinc stearate “zinc soap”
A mixture of zinc salts of stearic and palmitic acids that are widely used in cosmetic preparations because it contributes to adhesive properties. Also used in powder to improve texture and to lubricate and used as a coloring agent. For example, baby powders of 3-5% zinc soap are water repellent and prevent urine irritation.