Cosmetics Glossary

Glossary - B

babassuamide
A mixture of fatty acids derived from Brazil’s babassu palm. Used as a hair conditioner, foam booster and thickening agent.

babassuamidopropyl betaine
A compound containing the fatty acids of babassu and betaine.

baking soda
A useful product for household chores, from baking to cleaning. Contains deodorizing properties, works as a pH adjuster and a gentle abrasive, has skin protection properties and is commonly used in oral care products. Also used as an ingredient in fizzing bath seltzers and bath salts.

balm mint extract
This extract of the leaves and flowers of the balm mint plant has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effects with calming, skin-soothing properties. Balm mint extract also contains a balsamic essential oil that produces an antibacterial ozone.

balsam
Naturally derived from plants or trees.

balsam Peru
Obtained from Peruvian balsam in Central America, this dark brown, viscous liquid with a warm herbal odor is used in cosmetic preparations including lotions, creams and perfumes. Can be irritating on the skin.

barium sulfate
These are earth mineral used as a “whitening agent” in cosmetic preparations. Can irritate skin.

base notes
Essential oils that are classified as base notes are normally very intense and heavy with a solid fragrance. This scent will be present for a long time and actually helps to slow down the evaporation of other oils. They are normally rich and relaxing in nature and are typically the most expensive of all oils.

bearberry extract
A plant derivative that contains a natural bleaching agent “hydroquinone” used in skin preparations. More stable than synthetically made hydroquinone, this extract helps fade hyper-pigmentation on the skin by interfering with melanin synthesis.

behenyl alcohol
A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from behenic acid, a minor component of vegetable oils and animals fats. It is used in cosmetics as an opacifying agent, thickener, and emulsifier. Also used in synthetic fibers and lubricants to prevent water evaporation, and as an insecticide and antihistamine.
Low toxicity.

bentonite clay
Commonly used in facial masks to absorb excess oil and to thicken lotions.

benzene
Solvent obtained from coal, often used in nail polish removers.

benzoic acid
Natural preservative that occurs in cherry bark, raspberries, tea and anise. Also used as a flavoring agent.

benzoin gum “benzoin bark”
A skin tonic and freshener with antioxidant and preservative properties. Promotes healthy skin and scalp.

benzothonium chloride
A salt derivative in the form of a yellowish white powder that serves as an antiseptic to stop the growth of bacteria and a germicide to stop the growth of germs. Used as a preservative in cosmetics and considered less irritating than other forms of preservatives. Benzothonium chloride is prepared in an aqueous solution and used as a detergent, fungicide, bactericide, and spermicide.

benzoyl peroxide
The most common treatment for acne, this is an oxygen-releasing chemical that causes drying, peeling and antibacterial action on the skin. The release of oxygen is important to combat the anaerobic bacteria present in the acne-affected follicles.

bergamot essential oil
This plant oil has a strong, relaxing, citrusy scent. It is also phototoxic, meaning that it increases the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Not recommended for products that will remain on the skin, such as lotions and creams.

beta carotene “vitamin A – retinol”
An antioxidant found in different plants and animal tissues. When applied topically, it helps protect the skin from the effects of free radicals. It is used as a coloring agent in cosmetics and as raw material for the manufacturing of vitamin A.

beta glucan
This is a yeast extract that works with a sugar protein called mannoprotein to penetrate the epidermis and stimulate and strengthen the immune system like the AHAs. Good for acne-prone or sensitive skin, but may also cause sun sensitivity.

beta hydroxy acid
An exfoliating agent with a smaller molecule size than the alpha hydroxy acids used to exfoliate and renew cells. Beta hydroxy acid also plumps out finer wrinkles.

betaines
Naturally occurring in common beets and in many vegetables. Used as emulsifiers and skin and hair conditioners.

BHA “butylated hydroxyanisole”
Used to prevent the oxidation of oils in cosmetics. As a synthetic antioxidant, use has been limited by the FDA. Some allergic reactions have been reported.

BHT “butylated hydroxytoluene”
This is a white crystalline powder similar in appearance to refined sugar. Used as an antioxidant to delay rancidity of oils and fats in foods and cosmetic preparations. BHT has a high melting point, so when used to treat oils for soap, it must be well incorporated into the oils. The oils should first be heated to 160°F. Slowly stir the BHT into the oil until it is completely dissolved and well blended. This is done prior to adding the lye solution to the oils. Usage rate for BHT is .01% - 1%, with .05% used for treating soapmaking oils. Best used in soaps with tetra sodium EDTA, as the EDTA ties up the metal ions and helps the BHT work more effectively. BHT alone will also tend to yellow the soap. Liquid oils with shorter shelf lives are best treated as soon as they are opened or received.

biodegradable
Capable of being broken down into non-toxic, uncontaminated products by the action of living things like microorganisms.

bioecolia
A natural sugar complex that inhibits the growth of bacteria.

bioflavonoids
Bioflavonoids such as quercetin, rutin, and hesperidin are vital in their ability to increase the strength of the capillaries and regulate their permeability. They assist vitamin C in keeping collagen, the intercellular “cement” in healthy condition. They are also essential for the proper absorption and use of vitamin C by preventing vitamin C from being destroyed in the body through oxidation. Beneficial for hypertension and helps build a protective barrier against infections. Quercetin is a very highly concentrated form of bioflavonoids derived from citrus fruit. A deficiency in these nutrients may result in varicose veins, a tendency to bruise or bleed easily and/or the appearance of purplish spots on the skin.

biomin aquacinque
An aqueous mixture of five skin care minerals: magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, and silicon “with yeast additive”.

biosaccharide complex
A carbohydrate complex that acts as an antibacterial skin agent.

biotin “vitamin H”
This part of the vitamin B complex is found in all living cells and helps convert fats, proteins and carbohydrates into body fuel.

blackhead
Known as an “open comedone”, blackheads are a clogging of the skin pores by natural oils and impurities. A blackhead can be characterized as a mixture of dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria exposed to oxygen.

bleaching
The process to remove or neutralize the color of an oil or fat.

bois de rose oil
An extract from the rosewood tree that is used for many skin problems including irritation, dryness, puffiness and congestion.

borage extract “borago offinalis”
From the borage plant, this is an emollient and conditioning agent, high in gamma linolenic acid “GLA” and a very valuable ingredient for blemished skin and atopic eczema.

borate
This common term refers to salts describable to boric oxide or orthoboric acid.

borax “sodium borate”
A white crystalline mineral composed of sodium, boron, oxygen and water. It has fungicide, preservative, insecticide, herbicide and disinfectant properties. Borax functions as a bleaching agent by converting some water molecules to hydrogen peroxide “h202”, which generates free radical damage and is a problem for skin. The pH of borax is about 9 to 11 and can cause skin irritation when used in cosmetics. Borax works in many personal care products like creams lotions, shampoos, dyes and gels, bath salts and denture cleaners. It is used as a water softener and laundry product and much like baking soda “sodium carbonate” and has many cleaning uses. This mild alkali, used in combination with beeswax, forms a kind of soap that is used as an emulsifier in creams. The recommended ratio of beeswax to borax is 16 to 1 or 20 to 1. When combined with guar gum and water, it forms a glue. Found in recipes for laundry and other soaps and used in combination with sodium carbonate in commercial bath salts and as an alternative to automatic dishwashing detergent. Also used as an insecticide. There are different kinds of borax and for most uses it doesn’t matter which is used. Tetra means there are 4 molecules of water, Penta means 5 and Deca means 10, so if your formula is based on the tetra borate borax, you would use 1.45 as much of the pentahydrate or 1.9 times as much of the decahydrate. Canadian cosmetic regulations state that the concentration of borax in cosmetics should not exceed 5%.

boric acid
An inorganic acid used as a mild antiseptic and preservative.

botanical
Obtained from or related to plants or botany.

botanical name
The Latin name assigned to distinguish one species from another; the scientific name composed of the genus followed by the species.

bromelain
A proteolytic enzyme “digests proteins” obtained from the pineapple plant that hydrolyzes proteins and digests dead cells on the surface of the skin.

bronopol “bronosol”
Widely used as a preservative in cosmetic preparations, especially in shampoos, rinses, creams and lotions.

buffer
A pH balanced cleansing solution that is used to stabilize the pH of a product to lengthen its shelf life and make it gentler on the complexion. It helps improve the look and feel of the skin leaving it shiny and supple. A buffer is also an extremely fine-grit manicure tool used to shine the surface of the nail.

butylene glycol
Solvents used to dilute. An organic humectant “promotes the retention of moisture in the skin” similar to propylene glycol, used primarily in hairsprays and lotions.

butyl myristate
A fatty alcohol used in nail polishes and nail polish removers, face creams and lipsticks.

butyloctyl benzoate
Skin conditioner and emollient.

butyl oleate
The ester of butyl alcohol and oleic acid that is used as a skin conditioner and emollient in cosmetic preparations.

butylated hydroxyanisole
Preservative and antioxidant used in cosmetics and foods.

butyl paraben
An oil-soluble synthetic preservative of the paraben family. Used in cosmetics as an anti-fungal preservative.

butyl stearate
Butyl stearate is virtually odorless and often used as a solvent. Due to its versatility, it is also used as a softening and spreading agent throughout the cosmetic industry, as well in other industries. Emulsification properties make this a desirable agent in the formulation of lipstick, polishes, and other special coatings. It is used primarily as a binder and surfactant in cosmetics and as a skin-conditioning ingredient in personal care products. Considered to be non-toxic.

Bulk organic herbs, spices and essential oils. Sin

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