Cosmetics Glossary

Glossary - C

C12-15 alcohols benzoate
The ester of benzolic acid and C12-15 alcohols. Used as an emollient to provide a dry, silky feel to skin.

CA 24
Used as an antimicrobial in shampoos and bath lotions at concentrations of up to .3%. Allergic reactions have been reported to a .1% water solution of CA 24 within 24, 48, and 72 hours of use. CA 24 contains 70% chloracetamide and 30% sodium benzoate.

calamine
Pink colored powder that is a natural blend of zinc oxide and a small amount of ferric oxide. Used in skin lotions, ointments and liniments for its calming properties on the skin.

calcium carbonate “chalk”
Absorbent abrasive that removes shine from fatty skin. This is a tasteless and odorless powder that occurs naturally in limestone, marble and coral. Often used as a white coloring in cosmetic preparations.

calcium pantothenate
The calcium salt of pantothenic acid “vitamin B5”, a member of the B Complex family of vitamins.

calcium phosphate
White odorless powder used as an anti-caking ingredient in cosmetics and foods, and in toothpaste as an abrasive.

calcium silicate
This is a white or cream-colored anti-caking ingredient used in face powders for its extremely fine particles and ability to absorb water.

calcium stearate
Emulsifier used in hair grooming products. Also used as a coloring ingredient in waterproofing.

calendula
The common marigold is well known as a skin tonic and freshener. It is a frequent ingredient in ointments and in natural deodorants and is often used as natural yellow coloring.

calendula extract
Derived from the dried flowers of golden marigolds, calendula extract is used to soothe inflammation of the skin and mucous membranes. Also used as an herbal treatment to reduce body scars, soothe chapped skin and eliminate broken capillaries. Considered an excellent remedy for red eyes, skin abrasions or soreness. Used in fresheners, soothing creams, and sensitive skin products. Sometimes used in deodorants. Some adverse skin reactions have been reported in medical literature.

camellia extract
The extract of a tropical evergreen shrub that is used as a fragrant additive in products.

camphor
A cooling and antiseptic extract with firming and toning properties to the skin. Used as an antiseptic, stimulant and anti-inflammatory ingredient in toners, aftershaves, lip balms, and after sun preparations.

caprylic acid
This is an oil liquid that occurs naturally in palm and coconut oils and is made by the oxidation of octanol. Classed as a flavoring agent for use in perfumery.

caprilic/capric triglyceride
Various vegetable oils, dairy fats, plants and sweat are the sources of this solid crystalline mass with a rancid odor and good emollient properties. It is used in lipsticks, perfumes and as artificial flavoring.

capsicum
This is used to help prevent skin blemishes. Capsicum is also known as cayenne pepper. Capsaicin, which gives peppers their fire, is used in creams to relieve pain from arthritis and diabetes nerve damage. Dabbed inside the nostrils, pepper balms may relieve cluster headaches. Capsaicin is also an antioxidant that is said to impede the growth of cancer cells.

caramel
Used as a coloring agent in cosmetic preparations and as a soothing agent in lotions.

carbomer “934, 940, 941, 960, 961”
This white powder is an organic gelling agent that reacts with fatty particles to form thick and stable emulsions. This polymer is widely used as a thickener and a gelling agent, similar to a wax. Can be used to make clear gels or to thicken lotion without making it heavy or greasy.

carbopol
Carbopol® is a registered trademark of Noveon, Inc. “formerly B.F. Goodrich Co.” for a family of polymers that are used as thickeners, suspending agents and stabilizers. They are utilized in a wide variety of personal care products, pharmaceuticals and household cleaners. Most Carbopol polymers are high molecular weight acrylic acid chains, usually cross linked, and are available as powders or liquids. Carbopol is used as a thickener in lotions, creams and gels. The typical powder is very light and fluffy, forming clouds of airborne dust if not handled carefully. The cross-linked polymers are not actually water soluble, but swell into hydrated spheres that give the product its rheological properties. As with many gums, Carbopol will form clumps and "fisheyes" if not mixed correctly.

carcinogen
Any physical or chemical agent that causes or helps to cause cancer.

carcinogenic
A substance or agent producing or inciting cancer.

carmine
A brilliant red dye derived from dried and pulverized adult female cochineal insects, a tropical American scale insect that feeds on a specific type of cacti. It is often used in the coloring of cosmetics, medicines, and foods. Some allergic reactions are possible.

carotene “provitamin A”
Orange or red compounds that occur in plants or in the bodies of plant eating animals, which are precursors to vitamin A and essential for skin health.

carrageenan
Carrageenans are used mainly for thickening, suspending and gelling. Carrageenan is obtained by extraction with water or alkaline water of certain species of the class “rhodophyceae or red seaweed”. It is a hydrocolloid consisting mainly of the potassium, sodium, magnesium, and calcium sulfate esters of galactose and 3.6-anhydro-galactose copolymers. The relative proportion of cations existing in carrageenan may be changed during processing to the extent that one may become predominant.

carrier oil
Vegetable or nut based oil used as carriers to dilute essential oils prior to their application on the skin.

carrot oil
Rich in vitamin A. Primarily used as a fragrance and coloring agent in cosmetics. Helps to balance, tone and normalize the skin and stimulate elasticity.

castile
Soap formulated using olive oil as its primary oil “fatty acid” ingredient.

cationic detergent
Any of a class of synthetic compounds, as benzalkonium chloride, whose cations are colloidal in solution: used as antiseptics, wetting agents, and emulsifiers. Also called invert soap.

cationic surfactants
Surfactants in which the active molecule bears a positive charge. These surfactants usually have strong conditioning properties and are used in conditioners, moisturizing treatments and packs to reduce static electricity. Cationics often have anti-microbial properties “germicides”.

caustic potash
Also known as potassium hydroxide or KOH, this caustic white solid is used to make soft or liquid soap products.

caustic soda
Also known as sodium hydroxide or NaOH, caustic soda is produced by the electrolysis of brine “seawater”. It has a pH of around 12. This is a strong alkaline compound used to make hard soap products.

cell regenerative “cytophylactic”
A substance that is used to encourage the production of new skin cells.

cellulose
The fiber in the cell walls of all plants. Gum made from cellulose is used as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and binder in cosmetics. Cellulose is by definition an amorphous “formless” carbohydrate polymer, the main constituent for cell walls and structural elements of all plant tissues and plant fibers. Ethyl-, methyl- and hydroxyethyl-cellulose are gums that are derived from cellulose. Ethyl- is a film former used in lipsticks. Methyl- and hydroxyethyl- have desirable emulsification and thickening properties and are used throughout the cosmetic industry, most commonly in hand creams and lotions. Manufactured from natural cellulose utilizing strong alkali and methyl or ethyl chloride, methyl- or ethyl- cellulose gums are substitutes for water-soluble vegetable gums.

cera na
Also known as saponified beeswax, the hydrolysis process by an alkali that converts beeswax into a useable form.

ceramides
A natural lipid within the skin that reduces water loss by forming a protective barrier. These lipids are depleted by the aging process, but can be replaced by ceramides found in moisturizers or other skin products to improve the suppleness and moisture content of the skin.

cersin wax
A natural mineral wax used as an emulsifier and thickener. Some allergic reactions have been reported.

certified colors
Colorants approved by the FDA for use in cosmetics, food and drugs.

ceteareth-3
Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier in lotion. It is reported as a cause of numerous allergic reactions and is said to dry out the skin.

ceteareth-5
Used as an emollient “skin smoother and softener” and emulsifier “binding and thickening agent”.

ceteareth-20
Derived from cetearyl alcohol, this is used with the parent alcohol or with other fatty alcohols. Functions as a primary emulsifier and thickening agent.

cetearyl alcohol
A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. Cetearyl alcohol is not really an "alcohol" such as ethyl or rubbing alcohol, which would dry the skin, but is an emulsifying wax made by combining fatty alcohols derived from vegetable sources. Cetearyl alcohol may be naturally derived from coconut fatty alcohol or made artificially. It is used in many cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, moisturizer, emulsifier, stabilizer, opacifier as well as a carrying agent for other ingredients.

ceteth-2
A polyethylene glycol derivative of cetyl alcohol. A water-soluble agent used as an emollient, conditioner and emulsifier. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically.

ceteth-20
A polyethylene glycol derivative of cetyl alcohol. A water-soluble agent used as an emollient, conditioner and emulsifier.

cetrimonium bromide
A cationic anti-static conditioning agent and antiseptic that is used to improve the look and shine of hair.

cetrimonium chloride
A quaternary “more water-soluble” conditioning agent, similar to cetrimonium bromide.

cetyl alcohol
A fatty alcohol derived from palm or produced synthetically, this wax-like substance helps emulsify oils into a water base and can also be used as an emollient. Produces emulsions with body, stability, enhanced texture, and improves the feel in creams and lotions. Typical use rate is 1%. Can be used at between 2-30%. Toxicity level has been established as being very low for both internal and external use.

cetyl palmitate
Used as an emollient. No known toxicity.

chamomile
A daisy-like flowering plant used in cosmetic preparations, providing emolliency, anti-inflammatory and skin soothing properties. Used in hair care products to enhance color.

chamomile extract “azulene EO”
Extract from the white and yellow heads of the chamomile flower. Used as an excellent skin soother and anti-inflammatory agent. Reputed to bring down swelling and pain in the skin and mucous membranes and to calm eczema and allergic reactions. It is used in many hair care products to enhance color and also acts as an emollient and skin soothing agent.

chelate
Chemical compounds composed of a metal ion and a chelating agent, able to bind heavy metal salts to render them insoluble in water. “see also “chelates”“

chelates
Many essential biological chemicals are chelates. Chelates play important roles in oxygen transport and in photosynthesis. Furthermore, many biological catalysts “enzymes” are chelates. In addition to their significance in living organisms, chelates are also economically important, both as products in themselves and as agents in the production of other chemicals. A chelate is a chemical compound composed of a metal ion and a chelating agent. A chelating agent is a substance whose molecules can form several bonds to a single metal ion. In other words, a chelating agent is a multidentate ligand.

chemistry of lye
Lye can be made from lime and soda ash. Lime is more alkaline than soda ash, but when combined, they react to produce a stronger alkali. Synonyms for lye are caustic soda and sodium hydroxide. It remains one of the most important alkalis in the modern chemical industry although it is no longer manufactured from lime and soda ash. In addition to its many uses in chemical manufacture, it is the most common ingredient in drain openers and 100% lye can be purchased at the grocery store.
china clay “kaolin clay”

This is a fine, mineral-rich powder that helps draw oils from your pores while ridding the skin surface of dead cells and dirt.

chlorophene
Used as a preservative in cosmetic preparations; a biodegradable phenolic compound widely used as an active agent in disinfectant formulations for application in hospitals, households, industrial and farming environments.

chloracetamide
A commonly used preservative in cosmetics of all kinds including body lotions, creams, sunscreen preparations, shaving soap, hair care products, and deodorants.

chlorphensin
Alcohol used as a preservative in cosmetics.

chloroxylenol
A crystalline, water-soluble substance used as an antiseptic, germicide and fungicide.

cholesterol
A lipoid “an oily organic compound insoluble in water, but soluble in organic solvents” manufactured by the liver. It is more commonly located in the skin, fatty tissues and brain tissue and forms a protective cream with sebum and water to lubricate and protect the skin.

citric acid
A natural acidic ingredient extracted from citrus and other acidic fruits like pineapples. Commonly used as a flavoring and preservative in foods and beverages, citric acid is also effective in skin care products. Use primarily as a pH adjuster in lotions and other toiletries. Citric acid is a major ingredient in fizzing bath seltzers or salts, along with baking soda. When combined with water, a chemical reaction occurs to release carbon dioxide, thus the “fizz”. Mixed with water to make an acid rinse for hair to lower pH after shampooing with real soap.

citricidal
See grapefruit seed extract.

citronella oil
An antiseptic widely used in soaps and deodorizers. It also has an insect-repelling property.

clarifying
A toner or other solution used after cleansing to maintain a proper skin pH.

cleansing creams
A cream that contains little or no soap or detergent, typically with an oily base. It is generally applied, then wiped off, not rinsed.

clover blossom
Clover blossom is said to be beneficial in the treatment of acne. It is also soothing to the skin.

clove bud oil
A natural essential oil made from clove buds that adds a sweet spicy smell to skin care products.

clove oil “eugenia caryophyllata”
This plant extract is used for its anti-inflammatory anti-irritant properties in creams and lotions.

coal tar colors
Used to make coloring agents, however, most colors today are derived from petrochemicals, not coal tar products. “see also “FD&C Colors”“

cocamide DEA
Diamide “DEA” as opposed to monoamide “MEA”. Shampoo thickener and foam stabilizer derived from coconut fatty acids. It adds lather and effectively cleans the skin and hair as it aids in the removal of fatty soils. Provides foam boosting, foam stabilization and thickening properties in most personal care applications. Cocamide DEA is an unusual allergen that may cause contact dermatitis in individuals who often have multiple other skin allergies.

cocamide MEA
Monoamide “MEA” as opposed to diamide “DEA”. Provides excellent viscosity building and foam stabilization in anionic based systems such as shampoos, hand washes and body cleansers. The reduced water-solubility and melting point of monoethanolamides effectively control the dissolution rate in systems such as toilet bowl blocks, synthetic soap bars, and various tablet formulations.

cocamidopropyl betaine
Artificial substance frequently referred to as a natural substance that has been made “from coconuts” on the labels of shampoos. It is a secondary surfactant used in combination with other stronger surfactants. This surfactant is amphoteric, an agent where the active molecule bears both positive and negative charges. It is used as a mild cleansing agent and as an additive to shampoos and conditions.

coco betaine
See cocamidopropyl betaine.

coconut fatty acids
Also known as vitamin F aka EFAs “essential fatty acids”, which contain linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids. Coconut fatty acids are widely used, along with tallow fatty acids as ingredients in the manufacture of bar soap. These fatty acids also provide the base structure in intermediate applications such as betaines, imidazolines and ester quats.

coconut fatty alcohols
The long-chain fatty alcohols from coconut palm kernels, considered to be natural emollients.

coconut milk
The milk from coconuts considered to be a natural emollient for skin and hair. Can also be used in soap formulations.

cold pressed
The process in which oils are extracted under mechanical pressure at low temperatures, typically less than 125°F.

cold process soapmaking method “CP”
In basic terms, this soapmaking process consists of mixing and pouring cold process soap formulations at room temperature or without utilizing an external heat source.

collagen
Collagen is a natural protein within body tissues. 70% of the body’s connective tissue in the dermis is comprised of collagen, however, collagen in cosmetics has never been shown to have an effect on collagen in skin. Young connective tissue is made up of soluble collagen whose molecules are distorted in relation to each other. As the skin ages and is exposed to sunlight and chemicals, the soluble collagen becomes cross-linked resulting in molecules that are no longer displaced in relation to each other. Cross-linking makes the collagen insoluble and inflexible and the connective tissues become stained, dry, wrinkled and worn. Collagen can be derived from either plant or animals sources and is used in cosmetic applications as a water-binding agent.

colloid
A colloid is a state of matter in which individual particles of one substance are uniformly distributed in a dispersion medium of another substance. When the dispersion medium is water, it is termed a hydrocolloid. The colloid is relatively fluid when the solute particles present are dispersed throughout the liquid. This is called a sol. Alternatively, the particles can become attached to each other, forming a loose network which restricts movement of the solute molecules. The colloid becomes viscous and jelly like, and is called a gel.

colors, liquid
FD&C colors are approved for use in food, drugs and cosmetics. D&C colors are approved for use in drugs and cosmetics. Some liquid colors are FD&C and some are D&C. Water soluble liquid colors are in a base of water and propylene glycol. When used in most toiletries, including lotions, bath products, and bath salts, the colors are true. However, in other products, the effects may vary. Some FD&C colors are pH sensitive and will yield different results in cold process or melt and pour soaps, and bath salts. All the colors can be blended and used in varying amounts to yield different shades and effects. Liquid colors have a shelf life of 12 to 18 months when stored properly at 68°F to 77°F. Recommended use rate is to start evaluation at 0.1% and adjust from there. “see also “FD&C Colors and Coal Tar Colors”“

comedogenic
Capable of triggering non-inflammatory acne lesion “comedones”. A product and/or substance that promotes acne.

comedolytic
Agent capable of resolving comedones and preventing the formation of new ones.

comedones
There are three types of comedones or non-inflammatory acne lesions. The microcomedo is a clinically invisible accumulation of corneocytes in the follicular canal. The microcomedo is the original acne lesion. The close comedone “whitehead” evolves from the microcomedo and appears as a white dot. The open comedone “blackhead” appears as a dark-topped dot.

comfrey
Comfrey is an anti-inflammatory, astringent, and emollient containing muco-polysaccharides or highly effective humectants. Comfrey, which contains allantoin, has impressive wound healing properties and may be used externally to speed wound healing and prevent scar tissue. It is an effective healing agent in gastric and duodenal ulcers, hiatus hernias and ulcerative colitis.

comfrey extract
An extract of the fruit of “citrullus colocynthis” or comfrey. It is a fantastic skin soother and moisturizer. “see also “comfrey”“

comfrey root
Comfrey root extract is rich in allantoin, known for its ability to heal wounds and stimulate the growth of healthy tissue. ““see also “comfrey”“

concrete
A thick, fragrant material extracted from a botanical base through solvent extraction. Contains the essential oils, fatty acids and wax from the plant base.

continuous process
A modern method of commercial soapmaking in which saponification takes place under pressure. This method allows for the addition of base ingredients throughout the soapmaking process.

contaminant
An organism such as bacteria, yeast, mold, fungi, or any other unwanted substance that may find its way into a product.

corn cob meal
A finely milled powder from corn cobs that act as an effective exfoliant of dead skin without drying or scratching.

corn meal
A popular vegetable-derived abrasive and exfoliant, commonly used in scrubs, hand cleansers, gardener’s scrubs and soaps. Bright yellow in color.

corn silk
Corn silk is a soothing diuretic that acts as a urinary demulcent. It is also a soothing, coating herb that can protect irritated or inflamed tissue.

corn starch
This widely used food starch product is also effective as an abrasive, adsorbent and to increase the viscosity in aqueous products. Can be used in emulsions to improve the feel or decrease greasiness.

cornflower extract
This extract is obtained from the flowers of the cornflower plant and is used as an anti-inflammatory. It is also used in toners, astringents, and healing creams, but can cause photosensitivity in some people.

cosmeceutical
An unrecognized term by the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. In the cosmetic industry, the word refers to a cosmetic product with drug-like benefits.

cosmetics
Products used for the purposes of cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering ones appearance. The term “cosmetic” means:
I. articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and
II. articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap. FD&C Act, Sec. 201 “i”

cosmetic grade
Refers to the approval for use in cosmetics, such as colorants, dyes or fragrance oils that will come into direct contact with your skin.

cream
A “water in oil” preparation for the skin used to impart moisture. A cream is usually thicker, containing more emollients than a lotion.

cruelty free
Not tested on or obtained from animals in a manner considered to be cruel.

cucumber
Known for its astringent and soothing properties, it is an ingredient often found in facial creams, lotions, and cleansers. It can also be used in pure form as an anti-inflammatory agent for puffy eyes.

cucumber extract
An extract with anti-inflammatory actions and skin tightening properties.

cucumber juice
Juice with moisture binding, soothing and tightening properties.

curbicia extract
A plant extract that helps regulate the production of sebum in the skin. Used in hair treatments.

cure
The process that soap bars experience over 4-8 weeks where the soapmaking reaction continues and moisture evaporates until the final bars become milder and hardened.

cyclomethoicone
Emollient skin conditioning agent derived from silica. Water repellent, skin adherent and stable over a wide range of temperatures.

cystine
A non-essential amino acid that functions as an antioxidant and protects the body against radiation and pollution. It is necessary for skin formation and repair. Also aids in protein synthesis and can help slow down the aging process, deactivate free radicals and neutralize toxins.

cytophylactic
Said to encourage the regeneration of cells. An agent that increases the activity of leucocytes in defense of the body against infection.

Bulk organic herbs, spices and essential oils. Sin

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