D

D&C
Prefix used to designate the approved use of a color in drugs and cosmetics. According to the FDA, D&C is an identification that indicates a coloring agent has been approved as safe in drug and cosmetics products, but not in food. “see also “FD&C Colors”“

D&C Red #7
Synthetic organic colors derived from coal and petroleum sources “not permitted for use around the eye”.

D&C Red #17
This colorant is said to be carcinogenic in animals. “see also “carcinogenic”“

D&C Red #33
A colorant permitted for use in drugs and cosmetics, but not in food.

D&C Yellow #11
Added to D&C Red #17 for a peach color.

davana oil
Plant extract used in fruit flavoring in cosmetics and foods. No known toxicity.

dantoin 685 “DMDM hydantoin”
Preservative used in shampoos and deodorants. Contains formaldehyde and n-acetal. Considered to be highly toxic. Also listed as DMDM hydantoin.

DEA “diethanolamine”
Warning: The National Toxicology Program “NTP” completed a study in 1998 that found an association between the topical application of diethanolamine “DEA” and certain DEA-related ingredients and cancer in laboratory animals. For the DEA-related ingredients, the NTP study suggests that the carcinogenic response is linked to possible residual levels of DEA. The NTP study did not establish a link between DEA and the risk of cancer in humans. Although DEA itself is used in very few cosmetics, DEA-related ingredients are widely used in a variety of cosmetic products. These ingredients function as emulsifiers or foaming agents and generally are used at levels of 1 to 5% of a product's formulation.

DEA oleth – 3 phosphate
An emulsifier that prevents separation of a product and adds shine. “see also “DEA”“

DEA oleth – 10 phosphate
An emulsifier derived from oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid. “see also “DEA”“

dead sea minerals
Several studies demonstrate that Dead Sea minerals can have a positive effect on psoriatic skin. Psoriasis is a skin condition characterized by rapidly dividing overactive skin cells, although no one is quite sure how. Some of the research indicates that the benefit can last up to five months.
dead sea mud.

Rich in minerals, stimulates circulation, removes impurities, reduces perspiration odor, and nourishes the skin.

decoction
A tea made from the roots, leaves, or bark of various herbs.

decongestant
A substance that removes toxic material that has accumulated in the underlying structure of the skin expelled through the body’s waste system.

decyl alcohol
An intermediate for surface-active ingredients, an anti-foaming agent and fixative agent for perfumes. No known toxicity for skin.

decyl myristate
Esther of myristic acid that is used as a skin conditioner.

decyl oleate
An emollient skin smoother and softener that adds body to lotions.

deionized water
Water purified by removing highly active ions especially positively charged cations like calcium, magnesium, and iron.

demineralized water
This is water run through active resin beds to remove metallic ions and filtered through a sub micron filter to remove suspended impurities.

demulcent
A demulcent is usually a thick oil substance such as gum acacia.

denatonium benzoate
Denaturant for alcohol used in cosmetics intended to make alcohol unpalatable for drinking purposes. No known toxicity.

denaturant
Unpleasant substance added to alcoholic cosmetics to render them undrinkable.

deodorant soap
Soap made with ingredients that reduce bacteria causing odor. The ingredients in deodorant soap are often too harsh for the delicate skin of the face.

deodorize
The process in which odiforous material is removed from an oil or fat.

dermatitis
Inflammation of the skin covering a wide variety of skin disorders and evidenced by itching, redness and various skin lesions. Can be due to one of several causes – systemic disease, skin irritants, corrosives, acids and alkalis, or hypersensitivity.

dermis
The second or middle layer of the skin.

desquamation
The sloughing of dead cells located in the epidermis that are packed with fibrous protein called keratin from the horny cell layer of the epidermis. The final stage in the ongoing cycle of skin cell birth, maturation, and death.

detergent
A petroleum based surfactant. These artificial soaps may be made with a variety of chemicals and are frequently non-biodegradable.

diacetone alcohol
Solvent for nail enamels, fats, oils, waxes, and resins. Also used as a preservative.

diatomaceous earth
A porous and pure form of silica formed from the fossil remains of algae. Diatomaceous earth has great absorption power and can absorb up to four times its own weight in water. In masques, it sets and gels on the skin’s surface. Also used to rid the garden of undesired insects, including ants.

diazolidinyl urea
This is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative.

dicaprate or dicaprylate
Used as an emulsifier to help bind various ingredients together.

dicetyldimonium chloride
A quaternary ammonium salt commonly used as a conditioning agent. It is compatible with surfactants and often used in shampoos.

diethanolamine “DEA”
This is one of many artificial ingredients, but there is question as to the safety of this product. Due to the possibility of contamination by “nitrosamines”, this is an ingredient that many recommend should be avoided until the FDA has evaluated recent studies undertaken by the NTP. According to the FDA Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet of December 9, 1999 – “Although DEA itself is used in very few cosmetics, DEA related ingredients “e.g., oleamide DEA, lauramide DEA, cocamide DEA” are widely used in a variety of cosmetic products. These ingredients function as emulsifiers and foaming agents and are generally used at levels of 1% to 5%. The FDA takes recent NTP findings very seriously and is in the process of carefully evaluating the studies and test data to determine the real risk, if any to consumers. While the Agency believes that at the present time, there is no reason for consumers to be alarmed based on the usage of these ingredients in cosmetics, consumers wishing to avoid cosmetics containing DEA or its conjugates may do so by reviewing the ingredient statement required to appear on the outer container label of cosmetics offered for retail sale to consumers.” “see also “DEA”“

dihydroxyacetone “DHA”
Obtained from glycerol and used to provide artificial tanning by reacting with amino acids in skin to provide a natural looking suntanned appearance. Usually derived from sugar cane, it causes the surface layer of the skin to oxidize.

dimethicone
An organic silicone, used as a skin protectant and moisturizer. Well tolerated by even the most sensitive skin, dimethicone has a filming action on the skin surface which helps slow down moisture loss and further helps smooth fine dry lines.

dimethicone copolyol
A complex of natural silica that acts as a spreading agent for easy product applications and also functions as a moisturizer.

dimethyl lauramine isostearate
This is a synthetic compound derived from fatty acids, used as a conditioning and thickening agent.

dimethyl stearamine
Synthetic comound derived from fatty acids that is used as an anti-static agent.

disinfectant
A product or ingredient that can help destroy micro-organisms that cause infection.

disodium diglyceryl phosphate
This is a synthetic compound used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. “see also “glyceryl ester”“

disodium oleamide MEA – sulfosuccinate
A synthetic compound, wax-like solid surfactant “mixing agent” used as a solubilizer and wetting agent in bath preparations and lotions.

DL-alpha tocopheryl acetate
Vitamin E acetate. “see also “vitamin E”“

DMDM “dimethylol dimethyl”
Used with hydantoin to form a preservative. Works by slowly releasing formaldehyde to give bactericidal properties to lotions.

DMDM hydantoin
A synthetic antimicrobial compound used as a preservative to fight bacteria.

DNA enzyme complex
This is a bioengineered complex used to supply the body with moisture and to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

DPG USP “dipropylene glycol”
Dipropylene glycol is an oily, clear, colorless and almost odorless liquid used as a solvent and wetting agent for fragrances. Can be used to make oleoresins and other solid essential oil products pourable and as a base for essential oil based fragrances. Dipropylene glycol is often used to dilute fragrances for scenting incense. This is a condensation product of 1, 2-propylene glycol. Less hydroscopic than diethylene and ethylene glycols and less volatile than ethylene glycol.

drug
According to the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act “as amended”, a drug is classified as:
i. articles recognized in the United States Pharmacopeias, the official National Formulary, or any supplement to any of them;
ii. articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease in human beings or other animals.
iii. Articles “other than food” intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of human beings or other animals.

dulse
This is a dried sea plant powder that when added to water, is used to help rid the skin of toxins and to boost circulation.

E

EDTA “ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid”
A synthetic compound that acts as a sequestering “chelating” agent with unique properties of neutralizing trace metals “like calcium, iron and magnesium salts” and other deposits on hair. It is also used as a preservative.

EFAs “essential fatty acids”
Physiologically speaking, there are two fatty acids that are truly “essential”. These are linoleic acid “LA” and Alpha Linolenic Acid “ALA”. A healthy body uses LA and ALA to produce other fatty acids, which in turn, produce a host of beneficial compounds called eicosanoids. The derivative fatty acids each play specific roles in the maintenance of good health and include “gamma linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid “EPA”, and docosahexaenoic acid “DHA”. There is one other derivative of linoleic acid that isn’t always a good fat, but necessary in small amounts. This is “arachidonic acid”.

effervescent
To produce small bubbles of gas; to bubble, hiss, and foam as gas escapes.

eicosanoids
Eicosanoids are a class of lipids that include the prostaglandins, thromboxanes, and leukotrienes. Eicosanoids derive their name from their common origin, that is, from C20 polyunsaturated fatty acids, the eicosaenoic acids, particularly arachidonic acid. Related trienoic and pentaenoic acids are minor precursors to some of these compounds.

elasticity
The ability of hair or skin to stretch without breaking or morphing before returning to its original shape.

elastin
One of the three main proteins found in the skin along with collagen and reticulin. Sun damage causes elastin in skin to deteriorate. Elastin can be derived from both plant and animals sources and is used in cosmetics as an effective water-binding agent. Elastin in cosmetics has never been shown to affect the elastin in skin or have any other similar benefit, but to help attract and retain moisture to smooth and soften skin.

elder flower
Used in eye and skin creams for its astringent properties, elder flower is also an excellent skin softener used in many bath and facial blends and in ointments for dry to normal skin.

emollient”s”
Emollients can be natural, like plant oils; manufactured, like silicones; or processed from a natural substance, like mineral oil. There are many names for emollient additives including palmitic acid, myristic acid, PEG-60, hydrogenated castor oil, methyl glucose sesquioleate, cetearyl alcohol, isophryl myristate, hexyl laurate, isohexadecane, dimethicone, stearic acid, among many others. There are also more familiar natural versions of emollients including lanolin, hydrogenated plant oils, shea butter, and cocoa butter. These supple, waxlike, lubricating, thickening agents help to prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin.

emulsifier
A substance that allows the combination of water with fatty substances such as oils, fats, and waxes. It is a basic ingredient in all lotions and creams. There are two types of emulsifiers: oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsifiers. Oil in water emulsifiers mix “oil drops” into aqueous solutions and water in oil emulsifiers mix “water drops” into oily solutions.

emulsifying wax
Used to bind oils and water when creating lotions. In order to declare a product ingredient as containing “emulsifying wax NF “INCI name “Emulsifying Wax NF”“, the wax must meet the NF or “National Formulary” specifications. Some products sold as emulsifying wax or ewax could include blends of a fatty alcohol”s” and some ethoxylated fatty alcohol. They can also be blended with other emulsifiers. Some common waxy substances used to emulsify water and oils include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, ceteareth 20, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, polysorbate 60, steareth 30, and ceteth 20.

emulsion
A stabilized blend of oils and water. The suspension of one liquid within a second liquid of substances that normally do not mix.

enfleurage
The process of extracting the aromatic essences from plants using odorless fats to absorb the oil from flowers. The fat is then dissolved in alcohol to separate the essence from the fat and distilled to remove the alcohol.

enzyme
A class of protein “catalyst” that is capable of accelerating or producing biochemical reactions by binding to and cleaving other proteins.

epidermis
Refers to the visible, outer layer of skin.

epsom salts “hydrated magnesium sulfate”
This is a magnesium salt in the form of white crystalline powder often applied to water to soothe tired muscles and soften the skin. Originally obtained from the mineral waters found in Epsom, England, epsom salts are used to relieve aches and pains. Epsom Salt “magnesium sulphate heptahydrate USP” is used in a wide variety of skin care products including moisturizers, cleansers, bath oils, hair care products, bath tablets and soaps. Also used as a bulking agent. The crystals are very visually appealing in bath salts as well. Non-toxic.

ergocalciferol “vitamin D”
This is the vitamin produced by the body when exposed to UV light. It plays important role in calcium and phosphorus metabolism. A vitamin D deficiency is known as rickets. Symptoms include soft or weak, bendable bones, stunted growth, bow legs, chest deformities and knock-knees.

erythrosine
The common name of FD&C Red No. 3. “see also “FD&C Colors”“

essence
The fragrant oil extracted from a plant or herb.

essential oil
A highly concentrated liquid and aromatic volatile oil extracted from the flowers, leaves, petals, seeds, or berries of fragrant botanicals, most commonly through pressing or steam distillation. These are complex mixtures of alcohols, ketones, phenols, acids, ethers, aldehydes, esters, oxides, and sulfur compounds “among others”. They are also called “volatile oils, ethereal oils, essences or absolutes”. In soapmaking, essential oils are preferred over fragrance oils because some fragrance oils have been known to “seize” soap and affect saponification. Essential oils are more expensive, but have superior scent retention. Essential oils are highly concentrated and extremely powerful and while many are beneficial, others can be harmful. It is best to research any additive before using it in your products to determine whether or not it is deemed “safe” or compatible with your body type. For the soapmaker, some of the essential oils that cause recurring problems are the citrus oils. If you must use citrus oils, limit to 2 tablespoons per 25-ounce batch.

ESTER C
A patented form of vitamin C clinically shown to retain its potency longer than other forms. A powerful antioxidant, vitamin C is very beneficial to the skin. “Ester Câ is a registered trademark of Inter-Cal Corporation”.

esters
These are compounds formed by reactions of organic acids with alcohols. For example, some esters used in cosmetics are emollients and designed to spread easily and penetrate skin effectively. They tend to resist rancidity better than natural oils resulting in common use in products.

ethanol “ethyl alcohol”
This colorless, vaporizable liquid is more commonly known to us as the active ingredient in alcoholic beverages. Ethanol is widely used in cosmetics as a solvent and antibacterial agent. As a preservative, it is effective at concentrations of 15% to 20%. Ethanol absorbs water and can be very drying in skin lotions at concentrations of 15% and over. Lotions require added glycerols and vegetable oils to minimize the drying effect of ethanol. Can provoke allergic reactions in some people when applied topically. Taken orally, ethanol is toxic in doses above 80g. Ethanol is often purposely made unpalatable by the addition of methanol and it is then known as SDA or “specially denatured alcohol”.

ethoxydiglycol
This is an agent that works to discrease the viscosity of or “thin a product” to allow it to flow more easily.

ethyl alcohol
Same as ethanol or alcohol.

ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid “EDTA”
See “EDTA”

ethyl ester PVM/MA copolymer
This is a humidity resistant, non-tacky powder.

ethylparaben
Anti-microbial substance used as a preservative in cosmetic preparations.

eucalyptus Oil
Eucalyptus oil is said to improve blood circulation and has antiseptic, cooling and stimulating properties. Eucalyptus is said to be beneficial for the treatment of hair loss.

euphrasia
Helps reduce skin blemishes.

excipient
A usually inert substance “such as gum arabic or starch” that forms a vehicle “such as for a drug”.

exempt color additives
Colors derived primarily from plant, animal and mineral “other than coal and petroleum” sources that are exempt from FDA certification.

exfoliant
A substance of texture used to slough off dirt and dead cells from the surface of the skin.

exfoliating
A process of removing surface skin layers to reveal healthier, newer skin underneath.

expeller pressed
A process where an oil is extracted from a base by mechanically crushing and pressing the material at temperatures less than 220° Fahrenheit. Rose hip seed oil is extracted using this method.

expressed
A process for obtaining the oil of a plant by squeezing or pressing it without heat.

Ext. D&C
This term, when followed by the name of a color, verifies that the FDA has certified it as safe for use in drugs and in cosmetics used externally, not around the eyes or inside the mouth. It is not considered safe for foods. “see also “FD&C Colors”“

extract
An herbal concentrate produced by separating the essential or active part of an herb into a solvent material.

exudate
Fluid, cells or other substances that have been slowly exuded, or discharged, from cells or blood vessels through small pores or breaks in cell membranes.