F

farnesol
Considered one of the most important new ingredients in skin care products “also known as dodecatrienol”, farnesol occurs in various essential oils, most notably rose and orange blossom and wild cyclamen. A fatty alcohol, it is one of the components of vitamin K. Farnesol has been found to have the following effects: smoothes wrinkles, normalizes sebum secretion, increases skin elasticity, increases the tension of tissue and increases the moisture binding capacity of the skin. When applied topically, farnesol actually promotes regeneration of cells and activates collagen, elastin and mucopolysaccharides synthesis in the dermis. As a result, the skin looks younger and lovelier. In addition, farnesol has a bacteriostatic effect.

fats
Fats are acquired from animals, oil seeds, or fruit pulp and are available in solid, semi-solid or liquid form. They are commonly used as ingredients in a number of toiletry products.

fatty acids
Substances typically found in plant and animal lipids or “fat”. Fatty acids include compounds such as glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. They are used in cosmetics as emollients, thickening agents, and when mixed with glycerin, as cleansing agents. Fatty acids are natural components of skin and are components of a complex mixture that makes up the outermost layer protecting the body against oxidative damage. Fatty acids can help supplement the skin’s intercellular matrix.

fatty acid esters
Esters are waxes derived from plants and animals and are less greasy than fatty acid extracts. Cetyl alcohols from coconut palm kernels and lanolin from wool are examples of fatty acid esters. Use in absorption bases and as emulsifiers in cosmetics.

fatty alcohols
Fatty alcohols are natural or man made, semi-thick to thick, syrupy liquids used for their high emolliency properties in hair and skin conditions, creams, lotions and conditioning shampoos.

FCC “Food Chemical Code”
FCC is a publication listing standards for foods, supplement and additives within the food industry.

FDA
“Food and Drug Administration” of the United States.

FD&C
“Food, Drug and Cosmetic”

FD&C Colors or Dyes
According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a color, the color is certified as safe for use in food, drugs and cosmetics. FD&C Yellow #5, however, is said to cause allergic reactions in individuals sensitive to aspirin. The incidence of reactions to FD&C yellow were so prevalent that all foods produced after July 1982 have been required to list this color separately on all labels. D&C colors are those coal-tar colors that can only be used in drugs and cosmetics. Ext. D& C means that the color is only approved for an exterior application and should not be used on the lips or mucous membranes. This does not mean that Ext. D&C colors won’t assimilate into your skin. Lakes of D&C before a color mean some form of calcium, potassium, aluminum, strontium or zirconium have been added to the coal-tar dye to create the particular formulation. Each of these additives have their own health risks aside from the basic risks of the coal-tar colors. HC colors are coal-tar colors which are approved only for hair coloring. They are dyes made of aniline, azo and peroxide. Hazards may include skin rash, bronchial asthma, gastritis, eczema, and in some cases death. Every day people around the world utilize coal-tar colorants without being aware of the governmental cautions. Colors should be researched prior to use, particularly by individuals who might typically be sensitive and prone to allergies.

fixative
A fixative is used to anchor or stabilize a scent or fragrance and to slow evaporation. A fixative can be used when adding essential oils to soap or other toiletry products to help retain scent.

fixed oils
These are non-volatile oils obtained from botanical bases such as vegetable oils.

flavonoids
See “bioflavonoids”

floating soap
To make floating soap like ivory, add approximately one tablespoon of sodium bicarbonate “NaHC03” to your soap mixture after you’ve added nearly all the lye. You can also create floating soap by incorporating bubbles into the mixing process “whipping” at the time of blending. It is best to use a mixer at this time, not a hand blender. A hand blender may bring the batch to trace too soon.

floral water
The condensate water produced during steam distillation of botanical bases when making essential oils. Commonly used in skin care preparations and bath products. Also known as hydrolat or hydrosol.

fluid ounces
Unit of volume in the US System of Weights and Measures used to measure liquid. One fluid ounce is equal to 29.57 milliliters.

folic acid “folate, vitamin B9”
Necessary for DNA and RNA synthesis and essential for the growth and reproduction of all body cells.

folate “vitamin B9”
See “folic acid”

formaldehyde
Colorless, harsh, irritating substance found in many preservatives. It is severely toxic when inhaled or swallowed. 44% of all people whose skin has been exposed to formaldehyde experience an irritating reaction. It is used in shampoos at concentrations of .1% or .1%. Methanol is sometimes added to formaldehyde at a 15% concentration to prevent polymerization.

formula
A listing of ingredients in fixed proportion, usually expressed in percentages.

fragrance
Term used to describe the chemical formulation added to a product to give it an aroma. The word “fragrance” on a cosmetic label can indicate the presence of any of 4,000 separate ingredients. In fact, a single formulation may contain as many as 600 different chemicals. A joint study conducted in 1991 by the US House Subcommittee for Business Opportunities and The National Institute of Occupational Health found that 314 fragrance chemicals are known to cause biological mutation, 218 caused reproductive problems, and 778 caused skin and eye irritations. “see also “fragrance oils”“

fragrance-free
This signifies that there are no added fragrances to a product. While there is no regulated definition for this term, check the list of ingredients to determine whether a product contains a masking fragrance even though it claims to be fragrance-free.

fragrance oils “FO”
These are synthetic oils formulated to mimic natural fragrances or to create scents that are not available in essential oils. Fragrance oils alone do not contain the botanical properties found in essential oils. Some fragrance oils are blended with essential oils. “see also “fragrance”“

free-radical
Circulating substances within the body that could cause a breakdown of the immune system and lead to disease processes or infection. “see also “free-radical damage” and “free-radicals”“

free-radical damage
Free radical damage takes place on an atomic level. Molecules are made of atoms and a single atom is made up of protons, neutrons and electrons. Electrons are always found in pairs. However, when oxygen molecules are involved in a chemical reaction, they can lose one of their electrons. This oxygen molecule that now only has one electron is called a “free-radical”. With only one electron, the oxygen molecule must quickly find another electron and it does this by taking the electron from another molecule. When that molecule in turn loses one of its electrons, it too must seek out another, in a continuing reaction. Molecules attempting to repair themselves in this way trigger a cascading event called “free-radical damage”. The action of free-radical damage takes place in a fraction of a second. Antioxidants are substances that prevent oxidative damage from being triggered. See also “antioxidant”. It is now medically recognized that degenerative skin conditions, such as wrinkles and skin discolorations are primary caused by free-radical damage. Antioxidants are a way to reduce and potentially neutralize the rampage of free-radical damage. The primary causes of free-radical damage are air and sunlight, but it can also be triggered by cigarette smoke, herbicides, pesticides, pollution, and solvents.

free-radicals
Highly reactive or unstable molecules and atoms that cause aging and degenerative diseases. These molecules may steal particles from other molecules thus creating more unstable compounds and setting off a chain reaction that can damage cells. Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E fight free radical action that can weaken epidermal support, resulting in wrinkling of the skin, dryness, loss of skin elasticity and premature aging.

free-radical scavengers
Naturally derived antioxidants that counteract or influence the affect of free radicals.

French clay
French clay is often used as an ingredient in face masks to absorb oil from the skin and tighten pores.

fruit acid
Found in various fruits and herbs, fruit acids are used in masks and moisturizers for their ability to moisturize and exfoliate the skin. Fruit acids are used in concentrations as low as .25% and as high as 8%. The higher concentrations increase the “heat” of the product and the peeling action. It can cause skin irritation in some people. Alpha-hydroxy acids is the patented trade name for fruit acids, which are often synthetically derived in commercial formulations. Alpha hydroxy acids are now common ingredients in cosmetics, but were originally used as solvents in cleaning compounds and for tanning leather.

full bodied
Describes a rich-scented fragrance.

fuller’s earth
Relative pure form of silica with almost the same properties as French clay and similar to kaolin clay. Composed mainly of alumina, silica, iron oxides, lime, magnesia, and water. It is used as an absorbent and thickening agent in cosmetics.

fungicidal
An agent that kills fungal organisms. The most common skin fungi are athlete’s foot and thrush.

fungus
A general term used to denote a class of microbes “as bacteria and virus” that are responsible for skin infections and cosmetic product spoilage.

G

GAGs
See “glycosaminoglycans”.

gel
A jelly like material formed by the coagulation of a liquid. Gel is a semi-solid emulsion that liquefies when applied to skin.

gel stage
This is a stage in cold process soapmaking where the soap has been poured into the mold and insulated. The soap heats up and the center becomes darker and gel-like as it completes the saponification process. When the soap cools, it is ready for final curing.

gelatin
A protein produced from animals that is used to gel liquids. It is also used as a thickener and firming agent in shampoos and face masks.

gelatinous
Having the consistency of jelly or gelatin.

geranium oil
Anti-inflammatory and soothing to wounds, sores, dermatitis and other skin irritations. Also used as an insecticide and mosquito repellent and to treat lice and ringworm.

Germaben IIâ “preservative”
Germaben II is a commonly used preservative system for shampoos, hair conditioners and emulsion products. Germaben II dissolves completely in cosmetic formulations at a 1.0% concentration over a wide pH range. It can be conveniently incorporated into cold processed shampoos and into creams and lotions during their manufacture. The preferred method of addition of Germaben II is to add it slowly to the product with good stirring just prior to the addition of the fragrance. Germaben II has also been successfully used to preserve troublesome formulations containing nonionic surfactants, proteins, soluble collagen, aloe vera extracts and herbal extracts. The broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity obtained by the combination of Germall II with methylparaben and propylparaben provides the preservation protection necessary for sophisticated personal care products. Germaben II is recommended to be used at a level of up to 1.0%. This level provides to the product: 0.30% Germall II, 0.11% methylparaben, 0.03% propylparaben and 0.56% propylene glycol. Shampoos and liquid soaps generally require less than 1.0% Germaben II. Although Germaben II provides excellent antimicrobial preservation, every developed or modified product should be challenge tested to assure preservative efficacy. Germaben II is a clear viscous liquid with a characteristic mild odor. It is readily soluble at a level of 1.0% in both aqueous solutions and oil/water emulsions. Germaben II is a convenient, ready to-use complete antimicrobial preservative system with a broad spectrum of activity. The solubilized combination of Germaben II with methylparaben and propylparaben is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and against yeast and mold. Germaben II can be used without additional co-preservatives and is compatible with essentially all cosmetic ingredients, including surfactants and proteins. Label products containing Germaben II as: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. Every new or modified formula should be challenge tested to ensure adequate preservation.

Germaben II-E “preservative”
This is a clear viscous liquid preservative system with a characteristic mild odor. It is readily soluble at a level of 1.0% in both “water in oil” creams and “oil in water” lotion emulsions, but not in water alone. Germaben II-E is a solubilized combination of Germall II with methylparaben and propylparaben in propylene glycol. It is a complete broad spectrum antimicrobial preservative system that is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and against yeast and mold. Germaben II-E was developed for creams and lotions that present special preservation problems involving partial inactivation of parabens by ingredients in the formulation. Germaben II-E can be used in problem formulations without the need for additional co-preservatives. It is compatible with almost all cosmetic ingredients, including surfactants and proteins. All the components of Germaben II-E are permanently listed by the EU. Germaben II-E is a complete preservative system, in clear liquid form, that was developed especially for cosmetic creams and lotions that present preservation problems caused by the presence of paraben inactivating materials. Germaben II-E includes a total concentration of 20% parabens predissolved in propylene glycol for easy and convenient addition to cosmetic formulations. It minimizes the difficulties associated with incorporating solid parabens. Germaben II-E can be conveniently incorporated into hot or cold processed shampoos, creams and lotions during their manufacture. The preferred method of addition is to add it slowly to the cosmetic formulation with good stirring after emulsification and just prior to the addition of fragrance. In fact, some fragrance materials are most effectively incorporated into cosmetics by predissolving them in Germaben II-E and then adding the mixture slowly to the finished formulation. Germaben II-E is recommended to be used at a level of 1.0%. This level provides to the product: 0.20% Germall II, 0.10% methylparaben, 0.10% propylparaben and 0.60% propylene glycol. Although Germaben II-E provides excellent antimicrobial preservation, every developed or modified product should be challenge tested to assure preservative efficacy. Label products containing Germaben II-E as: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. Every new or modified formula should be challenge tested to ensure adequate preservation.

Germall Plus, Liquid “preservative”
Liquid Germall Plus is a patented combination of diazolidinyl urea “Germall II”, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate “IPBC” and propylene glycol. This preservative can be used up to 1.25% for both leave-on and rinse-off products. Germall Plus is a broad spectrum preservative available as a free flowing hygroscopic powder or liquid. It is water-soluble and compatible with virtually all cosmetic ingredients. A patented combination of Germall II “diazolidinyl urea” and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate “IPBC” with a dual mode of action that achieves a synergistic preservative effect. This action is highly effective in inhibiting the growth of gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast and molds without the need of any additional preservatives. Germall Plus is highly effective at low concentrations making it a cost effective preservative. Fully compatible with cationic, anionic, or nonionic surfactants, emulsifiers and proteins. Every new or modified formula should be challenge tested to ensure adequate preservation.

germicide
A substance or property that stops the growth of germs.

ginger essential oil
A warm spicy scent, said to aid memory and cheer you up.

GLA “gamma linolenic acid”
Highly unsaturated fatty acid. The main sources of GLA are the oils of evening primrose, borage and black currant plants. Used in cosmetics as an emollient, antioxidant and cell regulator, GLA is considered to promote healthy skin growth. It is also an anti-inflammatory agent. When taken orally, GLA has been shown to have some anti-cancer properties. See also “fatty acid”.

glacial clay
From the remote Pacific Islands of Northwestern British Columbia, Canada, glacial clay is considered to be the crème de la crème of clays for cosmetic and therapeutic applications and cannot be produced synthetically. An expert on rare clays of the world stated “You have in BC, a natural product which has no parallel in the world today.” Glacial clay has a pH factor of 6.5 to 7.3, as close to neutral as possible.

gloss
A smooth surface polish used to give a superficial luster. Used to make shine.

glucosides
Any of a number of compounds typically extracted from plants that can be hydrolized into dextrose.

glutamine
Substance that can help improve the barrier function of skin. “see also “amino acid”“

glycereth
A synthetic compound derived from glycerin and ethylene oxide. Used as an emollient.

glycereth “polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin”
An emollient used for smoother, softer skin.

glycereth 6 laurate
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also “glyceryl ester”.

glycereth 17 cocoate
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also “glyceryl ester”.

glycereth 20 stearate
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also “glyceryl ester”.

glycereth 26 phosphate
Polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin with an average ethoxylation value of 26. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also “glyceryl ester”.

glycerin
Present in all natural lipids “fats”, whether animal or vegetable. Glycerin can be manufactured by the hydrolysis of fats and by the fermentation of sugars, but it can also be synthetically manufactured. It has been said for some time that too much glycerin in a moisturizer could pull water out of the skin instead of drawing it in. Yet, what appears to be true is that glycerin shores up the skin’s natural protection by filling the right area known as the intercellular matrix. It attracts just the area known as the intercellular matrix and just the right amount of water to the presence of glycerin in the intercellular layer. This helps other skin lipids perform their jobs more effectively. Chemically an alcohol, glycerin is a sweet, thick, clear liquid. When fats and oils “triglycerides” are combined with a base, the end product is soap and glycerin. The glycerin comes off the triglyceride molecule. Commercial soap manufacturers remove glycerin because it is a valuable commodity to sell separately. It is also used along with sugar and alcohol to make transparent soap. Glycerin can also be added to a batch of soap to make the bars even more moisturizing. When used as a humectant and to prevent drying of the product in lotions and creams, use rate is 2-5% of the water phase. Too much glycerin in an emulsions can produce a sticky feel.

glycerol
See “glycerin”.

glycerol monostearate
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also” glyceryl ester”.

glycerol triacetate
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also “glyceryl ester”.

glycerol trioleate
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See also “glyceryl ester”.

glyceryl ester
Large group of ingredients composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are usually liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids where they originate and may become solid in other applications. These abundant fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water binding and thickening agents.

glycine
A non-essential amino acid that helps trigger the release of oxygen to the cell-making process. Glycine aids in the synthesis of non-essential amino acids in the body. Glycine can spare glucose fat for energy by improving glycogen storage. Glycine is also readily converted into creatine, which is utilized to make RNA and DNA.

glycolic acid
Hydroxyacetic acid, found in young plants and green fruits. This acid helps reduce the buildup of excess dead skin cells. Mainly derived from sugar cane juice, it is also used as a pH adjuster.

glycolipids
A plant-derived mixture of glycoceramides that help promote a stronger, healthier skin barrier. They are able to stabilize creams and lotions without irritating surfactants. They form rich gels, solubilize fats in alcoholic preparations, prevent fat crystallization or bind water in lipsticks and make-up formulations. Glycolipids enhance the bio-availability of other active ingredients. They are hydrating, restructuring, film forming, smoothing and refatting ingredients. Phospholipids and glycolipids give a very rich feel to cosmetics. These membrane lipids are the best natural and biological solution for emulsions and modern delivery systems in cosmetic preparations.

glycoproteins
When combined with saccharides, these form the skin’s intercellular matrix, holding skin cells and the skin structure intact. They are used as water-binding agents.

glycol stearate
The monoester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid. An emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and shampoos to achieve a pearlescent effect.

glycosaminoglycans “GAGs”
The skin is composed of two layers, epidermis and dermis. The epidermis consists of many layers of dead skin, which are supported by the dermis. The dermis is made up of a network of collagen fibers and elastin, surrounded by a gel-like substance called the ground substance. The ground substance is composed of glycosaminoglycans “formerly called mucopolysaccharides”, non-collagen proteins and water. Glycosaminoglycans promote the ability of collagen fibers to retain water and bind moisture into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The addition of glycosaminoglycans results in skin that has more moisture and increased flexibility. Chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid are part of this ingredient group.

glycoside
A plant compound containing one or more alcohols or sugars and a biologically active compound.

goat milk soap
Refers to soap made with goat milk as one of the main ingredients. Commonly prepared in place of water in the lye solution, but is also added at trace.

grapefruit oil
Juice from the grapefruit peel that is used as a natural tonic and astringent. A yellowish liquid valued for its cooling and anti-inflammatory properties.

grape seed extract
There are no published studies indicating that grapes in any form, applied topically, can affect the wrinkling process. However, grape seed extract contains proanthocyanidins “a flavenoid type molecule that protects capillary walls and inhibits enzymes that break down collagen and elastin”, considered to be very potent antioxidants, helpful for diminishing the sun’s damaging effects and lessening free-radical damage. High in a group of bioflavanoids superior to most because they are water-soluble and much more easily assimilated into the body. A hard working free-radical scavenger, the proanthocyanidins possess up to 50 times stronger antioxidant activity than Vitamin C and E, Beta-Carotene or Selenium. Proanthocyanidins also help promote tissue elasticity, help heal injuries, reduce swelling and edema, restore collagen and improve peripheral circulation. Proanthocyanidins also prevent bruising, strengthen week blood vessels, protect against atherosclerosis and reduce histamine production.

green clay
Highly effective cosmetic clay used for its sterilizing and purifying qualities. Produces a cooling effect on the skin, constricts follicles and deep cleanses the epidermis. It is very absorbent and cleansing to skin sebum.

green tea
Japanese green tea contains two active groups of chemicals known as xanthines  or ingredients that suppress inflammation and irritation and reduce cellulite; and polyphenols or catechins containing powerful antioxidant properties that are 20 times stronger than vitamin E. Significant amounts of research have established that tea, including black, green, and white tea, delivers many intriguing health benefits. Dozens of studies point to a tea’s potent antioxidant as well as anti-carcinogenic properties. Polyphenols are the active ingredient in green tea and possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties. Green tea and the other teas show a good deal of promise for skin, but they are not quite the miracle that cosmetics and health food companies claim.

gums “arabic and tragacanth”
These are polysaccharides of high molecular weight that are scattered in water. There are also manufactured polymers like the PVP/PVA copolymers. Some gums are used in hair setting products. Natural thickeners are acacia, tragacanth, quince seed, and locust bean.

H

hamamelitannin
This is a tannin found in witch hazel. It can irritate skin, but has potent antioxidant properties.

HEDTA “hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine triacetic acid”
Used as a bonding agent.

heliotherapy hydration complex
Moisture retaining skin care extracts.

henna
A colorant or vegetable dye for hair and nails that is derived from the leaves and stems of henna. Traditionally imparts a reddish cast to the hair by coating it. Clear henna is used to enhance shine.

hepatocyte growth factor “HGF”
Stimulated division in cells lining the liver, skin cells, and cells that produce skin color.

herb
A plant or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory, or aromatic qualities.

herbal
The fragrance blend from the herbaceous family of plant life. This is a fresh scent that can be used successfully in shampoos and body products.

herbalist
Refers to one who is in the business of cultivating and processing herbs for use in the beauty or health industry.

honey
A mixture of plant nectar and bee enzymes containing carbohydrates, B-complex vitamins as well as vitamins C, D, and E, with some minerals. Acts as an effective emollient to moisturize the skin. Honey, as an additive in soapmaking, contributes to a soap that is too soft, so the addition of beeswax will contribute to a harder bar. Using too much honey can also cause it to separate out of the soap during the insulation period. Honey is a wonderful ingredient in natural cosmetics. Can be applied to the face as a mask, incorporated into a mask product, lip balms, soaps and lotions.

honey, powder
Can be used in soap in place of fresh honey.

hot process “HP”
Soap is initially formulated using the cold process method. When it is “brought to trace”, it is then cooked using one of the various methods in hot process soapmaking utilizing an external heat source to accelerate the saponification process. These include the crock pot, double boiler, or oven methods. Hot process soaps do not require the longer curing time of cold process soaps. Excess water is removed quickly via heat rather than slow evaporation by curing.

humectant
A substance that preserves the moisture of the skin by attracting and holding water. Most dry skin is lacking in moisture rather than oil. One of the most effective humectants is the naturally-occurring glycerin found in natural handmade soaps.

hyaluronic acid
Component of skin tissue that is used in skin care products as a good water-binding agent. This is an acid that occurs naturally in the skin and holds many times more moisture than even the collagen protein molecule. It is the body’s natural lubricant.

hydration
To add moisture to the skin.

hydrocolloids
Seaweed-derived hydrocolloids are carbohydrates obtained from different species of algae from various regions of the world. They are used for food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and industrial applications and are valued for their gelling, thickening and stabilizing properties. A “colloid” is a state of matter in which individual particles of one substance, are uniformly distributed in a dispersion medium of another substance. When the dispersion medium is water, it is termed a hydrocolloid. The colloid is relatively fluid when the solute particles present are dispersed throughout the liquid. This is called a sol. Alternatively, the particles can become attached to each other, forming a loose network, which restricts movement of the solute molecules. The colloid becomes viscous and jelly like, and is called a gel.

hydrocortisone
A hydrocortisone can be produced by the adrenal glands or synthetically and is topically active.

hydrogenated soybean oil
An emollient containing oleic, linolenic and saturated acids, used to smooth and soften.

hydrogenated vegetable oil
Increases the stability of oils while retaining protective emolliency properties.

hydrogenation
A chemical process of converting a vegetable oil from a liquid into a solid using hydrogen.

hydrolipid
The skin’s balance of water and oil. Irritation and loss of skin elasticity occurs when this balance is upset.

hydrolyzed animal collagen
Animal derived collagen that gives body to the hair and helps protect it from sun, wind and weather damage by leaving a protective emollient film.

hydrolyzed keratin
Protein for the hair derived from non-animal sources.

hydrolyzed whole wheat protein
A non-animal, water-soluble protein derived from whole wheat. The two major proteins in whole wheat are glutenin and gliadin, which are both rich in the amino acid called cystine, an important sulfur containing amino acid with moisturizing properties. These proteins moisturize and smooth the surface of the skin, helping to bind moisture to the stratum corneum “acts as an emollient”.

hydrophilic
Having an attraction for water molecules.

hydroxyproline
Hydroxyproline is referred to as “hyp”. This protein acts as universal biological glue. The primary amino acid in collagen is L-hydroxyproline, a non-essential amino acid. Hydroxyproline plays a major role in the manufacture of collagen, connective tissue, skin, ligaments, tendons, bones and cartilage. Hydroxyproline is also necessary in vitamin D assimilation and vitamin D is essential in proper calcium absorption.

hydroquinone
A bleaching agent used to diminish skin discoloration “hyperpigmentation”.

hydroxyethyl cellulose
A naturally derived polymer that is used as a thickener in creams and lotions and helps modify viscosity. Forms a gel when mixed with water-soluble ingredients and helps protect the skin.

hydroxy propyl methylcellulose
This fibrous substance derived from plants is used as a thickener. Provides uniform consistency and body in products.

hygroscopic
Capable of absorbing and retaining moisture. Used in cosmetics as part of moisturizing ingredients in creams and lotions.

hyperpigmentation
Darkening of the skin, commonly produced by ultraviolet radiation, which provokes melanocytes in the skin. Extra areas of melanin in the skin can cause dark, irregular patches to occur. The sun, UVA and UVB rays, x-rays and photosensitizing agent stimulate melanin formation while vitamin C “ascorbic acid” tends to reduce it. Treatment with steroids is common as is the use of hydroquinone “a whitening agent”.

hypersensitivity
An overreaction of the immune system to an antigen. Hypersensitivity can lead to asthma, hay fever, urticaria and other skin reactions.

hypoallergenic
A term referring to products or ingredients that are less likely to cause allergic reactions than other products, especially for those who are already prone to allergies.

hypopigmentation
Diminished pigmentation or the loss of pigmentation, often due to genetics, skin resurfacing techniques and aging.