M

macule
A flat skin lesion that has an abnormal color. White, brown and red are the most common color changes seen in macules. A freckle is a macule. When a macule is larger than 5 mm, it is called a patch.

magnesium aluminum silicate absorbent
Flaky white solid used as a filler and thickener in cosmetics, particularly in antiperspirants, creams, and shaving creams. Also an anti-caking agent.

magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Vitamin C, an antioxidant that is linked to collagen synthesis, that does not oxidize with exposure to air.

magnesium citrate
Magnesium salt of citric acid that is used in hair sets or bodying agents.

magnesium stearate
Used as a filler ingredients in cosmetics.

malic acid
Derived from apples, this glycolic acid is great for removing dead skin cells “exfoliation” and brightening the skin “clarifying”.

marjoram oil
Warming and stimulating, this oil increases blood flow and aids in skin cell reproduction.

Material Safety Data Sheet “MSDS”
Information sheets provided by manufacturers or distributors to define the health, safety, and fire risks associated with products that are considered to be hazardous in some way.

matrix
The intercellular substance of a tissue.

matte
A dull or non-shiny finish that absorbs light.

melanin
The pigment in cells that create the color in hair and skin.

melaleuca
An Australian shrub known as the tea tree whose extracted oil is antiseptic and healing.

melanin
The pigment in cells that create the color in hair and skin.

melanocytes
These are the pigment-producing cells of the skin and their activity is the major determinant of the color of the hair and skin.

melasma
Melasma or chloasma are brownish discolorations of the face, hands, chest and neck. Pregnancy is a common cause of melasma, along with taking oral contraceptives. Unprotected exposure to sunlight is also a major cause.

melanocyte
Epidermal cell located in the basal cell layer that helps protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation. This is a cell that produces melanin.

melt and pour “soapmaking”
Melt and pour is a method of handcrafting soap by remelting a ready made soap base, adding fragrances and other additives, and then pouring into molds.

melting point
The temperature at which a “solid” melts to a “liquid”.

menthol
The active ingredient in oil of peppermint is “menthol”. A natural cooling agent derived from mint oils that imparts a cool, fresh and clean feeling to the skin. Also contains anti-inflammatory and anti-itching properties.

methionine “essential amino acid”
A principle supplier of sulfur that tones, conditions, strengthens, and prevents disorders of the hair, skin and nails.

methyl acetate
Artificial chemical used as an aromatic and solvent. Can cause dryness.

methylchloroisthiazolinone
A preservative used in personal care products.

methyl ethyl ketone “MEK”
Flammable, colorless liquid primarily used as a solvent that is also a skin irritant.

methyl gluceth
A humectant valuable in eliminating dry skin and less tacky than other humectants. Can be naturally derived from corn, but commercial grade methyl gluceth is normally manufactured from corn sugar and corn starch.

methylisothiazolinone
This is an anti-microbial preservative that should only be used in rinse off products.

methylparaben/propylparaben
Food grade preservatives used to ensure shelf life that is effective against a wide range of bacteria and fungi. Non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-toxic. Approved for use in foods.

methylsilanol carboxymethyl theophylline alginate
A plant-derived complex that affects the enzymatic breakdown of lipids, the regeneration of connective tissue and the inflammatory process associated with tissue compression by fat cells.

mica “iridescent”
Somewhat shiny silicate minerals split into very thin sheets. Micas are used in eye cosmetics to provide sparkle. The name of a group of transparent, flaky, colorful minerals approved for use in cosmetics, including the eye area.

micas
Pearlescent pigment of high quality that can be used in a wide variety of products to color almost any cosmetic or soap product and requires only a tiny amount. Pearlescent effects will show up best in clear products like gels or transparent melt and pour soaps. In opaque based products like cold process soaps or lotions, they provide wonderful color, but limited pearlescence. Because they are lightweight, they can be used in water or oil based formulations. They provide a nice visual effect when a product is shaken and they remain suspended for several hours before settling to the bottom. Can be combined with other color products to achieve other affects.

micelle
Packages of sebum “globules of liquid molecules in water” created by the lipophilic “fat-like” component of the surfactant “active agent that allows oil to mix with water” in shampoo.

microbe
A minute living organism like bacteria, trotozoa, and fungi.

microcomedone
An enlarged hair follicle filled with oil and bacteria. An invisible comedo lying under the skin’s surface that forms a plug that obstructs the outflow of sebum from the pilosebaceous unit.

microemulsion
A blending process that suspends microscopic particles of an ingredient in a substance from which they normally tend to separate, such as oil particles in water.

micronized marine algae
Derived from seaweeds and processed under cold pressure explosion to form a fine powder. Softening and moisturizing to the skin, algae also have detoxifying and diuretic properties.

microsponges
Microscopic spheres capable of absorbing and holding skin secretions up to four times their own weight, reducing oiliness and shine from skin.

middle notes
The bulk of essential oils are considered middle notes and normally give body to the blend. They also have a balancing effect. The aroma of middle notes are not always immediately evident and may take a couple of minutes to establish their scent.  They are normally warm and soft fragrances.

milk powder
An inexpensive alternative to fresh milk in powder form to be used in bath and facial preparations as a soothing skin cleanser and wash.

milk protein
A natural protein complex used for its mild cleansing properties and soothing action on the skin.

milled soap “hand”
Commonly referred to soap fashioned through the rebatching of cold processed soap.

minocycline
Antibiotic used to treat bacterial infections and is in a class of antibiotics known as tetracyclines. Used orally in the treatment of acne.

moisturizer
A substance able to hydrate the skin to prevent it from drying out.

monoethanolamine
Liquid amino alcohol used as a humectant and emulsifier in cosmetic preparations.

mucilage
This is a gel-like substance found in body cells, mucous secretion and synovial fluids. Highly effective water retainers that help to keep the skin hydrated and moisturized.

mucopolysaccharides
Liquid amino alcohol used as a humectant and emulsifier in cosmetic preparations.

nyristalkonium chloride
Derived from fatty acids with anti-static and moisturizing properties.

myristic acid
Detergent cleansing agent “surfactant” that creates foam and can be drying.

myristyl myristate
Ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid. Esters are light oils used as cosmetic emollients.

N

NaOH  “sodium hydroxide or Lye”
The alkali used to make hard soap. Also known as caustic soda or lye, it is produced by the electrolysis of brine “seawater”. A strong alkaline compound, NaOH has a pH of around 12. Used to produce hard or bar soaps.

NaPCA “sodium PCA”
The sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidone – 5 carboxylic acid, NAPCA is one of the best moisture binders available. Also a humectant and emollient.

naphthol
A coal tar derivative used as an antiseptic, in hair dyes and to treat eczema.

nasturtium extract
Extract of the leaves and stems of “tropaeolum majus” that is rich in vitamin A, C, and B2 and soothing to the skin. No known toxicity.

natto gum
Fermentation product of the soy protein by bacillus natto and used as a thickener.

natural ingredients
The FDA has tried to establish official definitions and guidelines for the use of certain terms such as “natural” or “hypoallergenic”, but its regulations were overturned in court. This gives companies the go ahead to use these terms on ingredient labels without having to prove that they are natural or hypoallergenic. The term “all natural” has considerable market appeal in promoting these products to consumers, but a close look at an ingredients label often reveals that plant extracts make up only a small percentage of the product.

natural soap
Soap produced using natural ingredients that are free from petroleum, chemical or other artificial substances.

natural source
Obtained or derived from a natural source like a botanical base.

nettle
Obtained from the flowers of lamium album, nettle contains tannins, amino acids and flavonoids. Known for its tonic, revitalizing and astringent properties, nettle is used as a spring tonic and general detoxifying remedy in Europe. They have helped in many cases or rheumatism and arthritis. As an astringent, they may be used for nosebleeds or to relieve hemorrhaging symptoms. Also a botanical additive used in hair and skin products, particularly eye creams and treatments for the scalp.

niacin “vitamin B3, nicotinic acid”
Niacin improves circulation and reduces the cholesterol level in the blood. It also maintains the nervous system and helps metabolize protein, along with reducing high blood pressure and increasing energy through proper utilization of food. Prevents pellagra and helps maintain a healthy skin, tongue and digestive system. A white to yellowish powder.

nickel sulfate
Green or blue crystals with a sweet astringent taste. Used in hair dyes and astringents, but can cause skin rash.

nicotinyl alcohol
Used as a skin-conditioning ingredient and as a solvent.

nitrosamines
Carcinogenic compounds formed from secondary amines “nitrosating agents” and nitrous acid. Typical nitrosating agents used in cosmetic formulations are DEA, MEA, and TEA. One consumer magazine recommends not using products containing TEA or DEA as a precautionary measure. Nitrosamines are contaminants of chemical based cosmetic products. Contamination can occur during many stages of manufacturing including certain pH balances, water solutions and in storage and shipment from the scams in metal drums. Because the chemical nature of common preservatives used in these conventional products, they either do not protect from nitrosame formation or they contribute to further contamination.

non-comedogenic
Does not clog oil glands that is a common cause of blemishes.

nonionic surfactant
A nonionic surfactant is a usually mild cleanser with good conditioning properties in which the active molecule has no electric charge.

nonoxynol - 10
A synthetic ingredient used as a dispersing agent to solubilize essential oils. Not to be confused with the spermicide nonoxynol-9

nutrient
A substance, such as a vitamin, which provides elements for the ongoing functioning of the body’s metabolic processes.

O

oat beta glucan
This ingredient provides great moisture-retention capability to the skin. Beta-Glucans occur in highest amounts in the endosperm of barley and oats. Barley soluble fiber is also rich in tocotrienes, which are anti-oxidants, related to Vitamin E.

oat derived polysaccharide
Natural complex derived from oats that functions to assist the body’s immune system to maintain healthy skin.

oat protein
This protein has moisture-binding properties that are easily absorbed by the skin and hair. Improves body and elasticity in hair.

oat oil
Oat oil is a powerful emollient with antioxidant properties.

oatmeal
Oatmeal can have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. Used in soap formulations for its gentle exfoliating action.

oatmeal soap
Soap containing oatmeal is said to absorb oil and soothe sensitive skin as well as exfoliate. Also has anti-irritant properties.

occlusive
Occlusive means “impenetrable” and usually refers to an occlusive shield or film that is spread onto the skin to slow or prevent the evaporation of moisture. This shield or film is usually made up of materials such as oils and waxes that cannot be penetrated by water.

octapeptide
A peptide that on hydrolysis yields eight amino acids.

octyl
A hypothetical hydrocarbon radical regarded as an essential residue of octane.

octyl palmitate
An emollient amplifying ester commonly used as a mineral oil replacement.

octyl stearate
Provides a barrier between skin and the elements; softens and soothes the skin.

oil, fixed
These are lipids, esters of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols “oily substances” that basically have no scent, like olive and palm oils.

oil, volatile
The aromatic oils obtained from plants and used for their scent and other properties.

ointment
Type of determatological vehicle that has an oil base giving it lubricating properties. Often used to treat dry skin.

oleic acid
A monounsaturated fatty acid found in natural fats and oils. A mild surfactant.

oleth 2 through oleth 50
These polyethylene glycol ethers of oleic acid are used as surfactants. “see also “surfactants”

oleyl alcohol
This is an oily, unsaturated liquid “fatty alcohol” found in fish oil and used to make surface-active agents.

oil based
A product in which oil soluble solutions are the major component.

oil glands
Oil or “sebaceous” glands produce a waxy-fatty substance called sebum that lubricates the skin to protect it from moisture loss.

olfactory
Of or pertaining to the sense of smell.

opaque
Exhibiting shadiness – contrast of clearness.

OPC “proanthocyanidins”
OPCs are used as antioxidants to protect the body against the harmful biological effects of free radicals. OPCs can be extracted from peanut skins, pine bark or grape seeds. OPCs are the most powerful antioxidant free-radical scavengers known to man. They are up to 50 times more potent that vitamin E and 20 times more potent than vitamin C. OPCs are major protectors of collagen, the basic foundation of blood vessels and all connective tissues such as skin and ligaments around joints and tendons.

orange flower
Used for emolliency and to impart luster.

orange oil
Soothing, hydrating, calming oil that reduces irritation. Used in essential oil blends for treatment of cellulite.

orange peel extract
Commonly used to impart color.

organic
Produced without the use of synthetic processes. Pertaining to carbon-based compounds produced by living plants, animals or by synthetic processes. Referring to substances that are or have been alive, and therefore contain carbon molecules in their chemical structure.

orris root
This is a common fixative that acts as a “glue” to help retain the scent of essential oils in products. ½ teaspoon per 24 oz batch is recommended. Used primarily as a fragrant component due to its violet-like scent.

orthophosphoric acid
A strong mineral acid “H3PO4”, the monomeric form of phosphoric acid.

Oxy “oxy- or ox-”
A combining form meaning sharp, quick, or sour, or denoting relationship to acid, or denoting the presence of oxygen in a compound.

oxybenzone
Sunscreening agent derived from isopropanol.

oxidation
The removal of a pair of hydrogen atoms “dehydrogenation” from a molecule.

oxidize
To combine or cause to combine with oxygen or to lose electrons.

ozokerite
Naturally occurring wax-like mineral that is used as an emulsifier and thickening agent. Used in lipstick and cream rouge.