P

PABA “para-aminobenzoic acid”
A water-soluble B vitamin that acts as a skin nutrient and sun protector to screen out and absorb the sun’s harmful rays. PABA is the only natural sunscreen recognized by the FDA. While some suffer allergic reactions to its synthetic forms, most people are able to tolerate natural, food-grade PABA.

padimate O “octyl dimethyl PABA or 2-ethyihexyl PABA”
The ester of 2-ethyihexy alcohols and dimethyl paminobenzoic acid. A “PABA-free” sunscreen that, while a derivative of PABA, is no longer PABA.

palm kernelamide DEA and MEA
Fatty acids derived from palm kernel oil that are often used as conditioning agents and thickeners in shampoos. “see also “DEA and MEA”

palm glycerides
Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetic preparations.

palm stearic acid
Used in soapmaking as an ingredient to produce a harder bar of soap. Recommended use is no more than 3% to 5% of the formulation. Speeds up tracing of soap and if the percentage of palm stearic acid is too high, you may find that pouring time will be very limited. Aside from making a hard bar of soap, the addition of palm stearic acid aids in longer lasting lather.

palmitates
Generally these are forms of fatty acids used in cosmetics as thickening agents and emollients. As is true for any emollient, they can potentially clog pores, depending on the amount used in the product. Used in baby oils, bath oils, eye creams, hair conditioners and moisturizers. Can cause allergic reactions in some people.

palmitic acid
Fatty acid derived from palm oil. This is a detergent cleansing agent that also creates foam. Can be drying. “see also “surfactant”

pansy
Effective astringent with cooling and emollient properties that works well in a great many herbal preparations.

panthenol
Alcohol form of vitamin B “panthothenic acid” that is a natural skin hydrator. Also used as a hair thickener and to provide nourishment to the scalp.

pantothenic acid “panthenol, provitamin B5”
Participates in the release of energy from carbohydrates, fats and protein and aids in the utilization of vitamins. Improves the body’s resistance to stress, helps in cell building and the development of the central nervous system. On the skin, it acts as a penetrating moisturizer. Plumps and moisturizes hair shaft to make it appear thicker, reduces split ends, smoothes skin and strengthens nails.

papaya enzymes
From the tasty papaya fruit, these enzymes when taken orally, aid digestion and help to control bad breath. Applied topically, the enzyme acts as an exfoliant to slough off dead skin cells.

papillae
Projections that extend upward from the dermis to the epidermis and help anchor the dermis and epidermis together. Small raised bumps or nipples on a tissue surface. Lingual papillae are taste buds.

papule
A small solid and elevated skin lesion “common acne lesions” that are less than 0.5 cm in diameter.
para-aminobenzoic acid “PABA”

Found in vitamin B complex and used in sunscreen formulations and as an anesthetic in sunburn products. Can cause allergic reactions. “see also “PABA”

parabens
Group of preservatives used in cosmetics to prevent bacteria and fungal growth in products. While these are considered to cause less irritation than some preservatives, there is research showing that in animals, models and in vitro, parabens have weak estrogenic activity. Whether that poses any health risk is unknown.

parrafin
Wax or oil substitute used as a thickener for cosmetics and as a candle wax derived from petroleum.

patchouli oil
Extracted from the plant “pogostemon patchouli”, this oil is used for its antiseptic properties. Popular fragrant oil native to Malaysia and the Philippines, derived from mint. Contains eugenol and can be a skin sensitizer and irritant.

patch test
Test that helps identify allergens responsible for allergic contact dermatitis.

pectin
Natural substance used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickener. Contains partially methoxylated polygalacturonic acids.

PEG compounds
Artificial compounds used as solvents, bases, carriers, emulsifiers, and dispersants.

PEG “polyethylene glycol or polyoxyethylene glycol”
Polymeric forms of ethylene oxide that is used to produce a wide range of cosmetic materials. PEG-75 Lanolin has protective and emollient properties while PEG-20 Stearate is an emulsifier.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Used as an emollient and co-emulsifier.

PEG-20 stearate
Derived from stearic acid, this is an emulsifier for creams and lotions.

PEG-80 sorbitan laurate
A mild surfactant.

PEG-100 stearate
Derived from stearic acid and used as an emulsifier for creams and lotions.

PEG-150 distearate
Used as a form stabilizer and hair and skin conditioner.

pentacrythritol tetra caprate/caprylate
A vegetable source emulsifier derived from caprylic acid.

peppermint
Emollient herb with astringent, stimulating, cleansing, restorative and healing properties.

peppermint oil
An excellent freshener frequently used in shampoos and rinses for its toning effect on the scalp. Also very soothing and cooling to the skin.

peptide
Natural or artificial, peptides are composed of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. When peptide bonds in the hair are broken, the result is damaged hair. Any member of low molecular weight proteins that yield at least two or more amino acids on hydrolysis. Large peptides containing dozens of amino acids are called proteins.

petitgrain oil
Oil extract used for its skin soothing and calming properties.

petrolatum
Vaseline is pure petrolatum. Petrolatum has attained a negative image in regard to skin care, despite good research to the contrary. Topical application of petrolatum can help the skin’s outer layer recover from damage, reduce inflammation and generally heal the skin. Cream additive derived from petroleum to help soften and soothe skin. Forms a film to prevent moisture loss.

petroleum
Mixture of hydrocarbons with properties similar to mineral oil. Industrially, it is used as a grease component.

pH “percentage of hydrogen”
System for measuring the alkalinity and or acidity of any solution, including soil.

PHA
See “polyhydroxy acid”

PHBs
These are preservatives widely used in many cosmetics and shampoos. Another name for PHBs is paraben.

PhenonipÒ
Phenonip is a preservative that works in a multitude of applications. It is a clear liquid and the application rates vary from .3% to 1% by weight depending on the circumstances. Most applications are in the .3% to .5% range. To preserve 200g of salt scrub at .5% application rate would mean using approximately 1g of Phenonip. This preservative was designed with cosmetics in mind and is especially effective when used in conjunction with oil-based products but also works extremely well in aqueous solutions up to a .5% application rate. Phenonip can also tolerate higher temperatures than many other preservatives and still maintain its effectiveness. Every new or modified formula should be challenge tested to ensure adequate preservation. Products containing Phenonip should be labeled as: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben

phenoxyethanol
Commonly used cosmetic preservative considered to be one of the least irritating to use in formulations as it does not release formaldehyde.

phenyl trimethicone
Water-resistant silicone used as an emollient and moisturizer that adds shine and flexibility.

pilosebaceous
Of or relating to a hair follicle and its sebaceous gland.

phospholipid
Type of lipid or fat that is composed of glycerol, fatty acids, and phosphate. Phospholipids are essential to the function of cell membranes by providing a stable surrounding structure. Lecithin and cholesterol are phospholipids. A phospholipid is a complex fatty material found in all living cells that acts as an emollient, antioxidant, natural emulsifier and spreading agent. Used in various skin preparations.

phosphoric acid
Clear viscous liquid used as a pH adjuster in cosmetic and skin care products and as an antioxidant and acidifier.

photoaging
Premature breakdown of the skin’s cells caused by damage from the sun’s UVA and UVB rays.

photosensitivity
A condition in which the sun causes skin problems including rash, hyperpigmentation, swelling and sunburn, due to an application or ingestion of certain chemicals or foods. Caused by a reaction to certain drugs and chemicals including vitamin A “retinol or alpha-hydroxy acids”.

phytocosmetic
Cosmetics that are made from plant material.

phytosterols
Plant sterols or lipids synthesized by plants and similar to cholesterol in structure, phytosterols are believed to decrease cholesterol absorption by competing with cholesterol for receptor sites in the GI tract.

pigment
Means “color” and refers to the minerals and plant extracts used to give makeup its many different hues. The higher the concentration of pigment, the stronger and more opaque the colors will be.

poloxamer 407
Non-ionic polymer cleansing agent. “see also “surfactant”

polyethylene
When it is not combined with glycol, polyethylene is the most common form of plastic used in the world. It is flexible and has a smooth waxy feel. When ground up, the small particles are used in scrubs as a gentle abrasive. When mixed with glycol, it becomes a viscous liquid. In the miniscule amounts used in cosmetics, it helps keep products stable and performs functions similar to glycerin.

polyethylene glycol
Also listed as PEG on ingredient labels, polyethylene glycol is an ingredient that is often touted as highly toxic. PEG is often associated with antifreeze, even though antifreeze is ethylene glycol, not polyethylene glycol. PEGs have no known skin toxicity and can be used on skin with great results. With skin penetrating abilities, polyethylene glycol is also a vehicle to help deliver other ingredients deeper into the skin. It is even used internally in medical procedures to flush and clean the intestinal tract.

polyethylene thickener
Thickeners used as gelling agents, like a wax.

polyhydroxy acids “PHAs”
Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid said to moisturize and restore the skin to a smoother, healthier and more radiant state. Repeated use may reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Used in anti-wrinkle creams.

polymers, polymeric, polymerization
Used in cosmetics to keep sunscreens from washing off, in hair setting products and as binders in skin creams. Plastic fingernails are also produced by polymerization. A chemical compound or mixture of compounds formed by polymerization “a chemical reaction in which two or more molecules combine to form larger molecules that contain repeating structural units”.

polyquaterniums
A group of thickening agents with very distinct properties that are compatible to skin and hair.

polyquaternium 7
Conditioner preparation used in both rinse-off and leave-in conditioner.

polyquaternium 11
A fixative with anti-bacterial properties used to add hold and sheen to styling products.

polyquaternium 37
Used as an emulsifier.

polysorbate
Fatty acid esters used in many cosmetics as emulsifiers. Polysorbates are assigned different numerical values according to their formulas and whether they are intended for use in cosmetics or foods.

polysorbate 20NF
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, trade name Tween 20NF, FCC. A non-toxic, viscous oily liquid derived from lauric acid “coconut oil”. Used as an emulsifier in creams and lotions, a stabilizer of essential oils in water and a nonionic surfactant.

polysorbate 60
A viscous, oily, water-soluble, non-ionic emulsifier enabling water and oil to mix. The effect is increased when combined with cetyl alcohol or sorbitan stearate. Also a dispersing agent, thickener, antistat, solubilizer and stabilizer of essential oils used to stabilize perfumes in water-based preparations and act as a modifier and stabilizer of shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.

polysorbate 80
Excellent nonionic emulsifier enabling water and oil to mix. Polysorbate 80 is a disbursing agent, solubilizer, antistat, and stabilizer of essential oils.

polysorbate 80 NF
Polyoxethylene sorbitan monooleate, trade name Tween 80K “Kosher”. A non-toxic, viscous oily liquid derived from oleic acid. Used to emulsify oils in water. Can be used to make blooming bath oils.

pore
A small opening of the sweat glands of the skin.
potassium

An essential mineral that promotes healthy skin.

potassium hydroxide
A caustic white solid alkali, KOH is used in the manufacturing of soft or liquid soap.

potassium sorbate
A mild food grade preservative found in cheese and wine, among other products.

PPG-1
Used as an emulsifier.

PPG-2 isodeceth 12
An organic solubilizer of perfume oils and an emulsifier.

preservatives
Preservatives are substances that slow spoilage and give anti-microbial protection to toiletry and cosmetic products. Researchers have become increasingly aware of the dangers associated with microbial contamination of topical skin products and know more today than ever about the sources of contamination. Unfortunately, adaptable organisms continue to cause problems resulting in bacterial infections of the skin.

primer
A colorless lotion or gel applied to the face before makeup. Makes for longer-lasting, more even-looking makeup.

pristane
A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils.

proline
An amino acid that when combined with sodium PCA, has been demonstrated to provide excellent moisture absorption and retention properties to the skin.

propionate
An ester or salt of propionic acid.

propylene glycol
Propylene glycol is the most common moisture carrier vehicle other than water that permeates the skin better than glycerin, but can also cause more sensitivity reactions. Along with other glycols and glycerol, this is a humectant or humidifying and delivery ingredient used in cosmetics. There are websites and spam emails reporting that propylene glycol is really industrial antifreeze and that it is the major ingredient in brake and hydraulic fluids. These sites also state that tests show it to be a strong skin irritant. They further point out that the Material Safety Data Sheet or MSDS on propylene glycol warns users to avoid skin contact because systemically “in the body” it can cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage. However, MSDS sheets are referring to 100% concentrations of a substance. Even water and salt have frightening comments regarding their safety according to the MSDS. In cosmetics, propylene glycol is used in miniscule amounts to keep products from melting in high heat or freezing when it is cold. According to the US Department of Health and Human Services, within the Public Health services Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, “Studies have not shown these chemicals “propylene or the other glycols as used in cosmetics” to be carcinogens.” Used in all kinds of cosmetics including everything from toothpaste to shampoos, as a preservative in emulsions, a solvent for fragrances, an extractant for active principles from natural products, a solvent for water-soluble vitamins and a lubricant.

propylene glycol dicocoate
A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids that work to remove unwanted build-up from hair.

propylene glycol stearate
An ester of propylene glycol and stearic acid that is used in creams, lotions, hair care products and makeup as a co-emulsifier to produce a pearly opaque effect.

propylparaben
Common cosmetic food grade preservative that is anti-fungal and anti-microbial. It is less water-soluble than methylparaben. “see also “methylparaben”

protein
Any number of numerous naturally-occurring, extremely complex substances that consist of amino acid residues joined by peptide bonds and contain the elements carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, oxygen, usually sulfur, and occasionally other elements such as phosphorus or iron. They also include many essential biological compounds such as enzymes, hormones or immunoglobulins. Enzymes and hormones are proteins, as are collagen, keratin, and elastin. Proteins break down through sun damage and aging. Applied topically to the skin, proteins help give the skin a firmer look. Components of proteins can have varying benefits for skin, but overall, they are used for their water-binding and emollient properties.

protein treatment
A hair treatment designed to add strength and elasticity to the hair by adding protein to the cortex.

proteolytic
An enzyme or agent that accelerates the breaking down or digestive hydrolysis of proteins into smaller proteins, peptides, polypeptides, ligopeptides, amino acids, among others.

Protolâ
Trade name for mineral oil.

provitamin B5
See “pantothenic acid”.

psoriasis
A chronic inflammatory skin disease of unknown origin in which skin cells replicate at a rapid rate. Psoriasis cannot be passed from one person to another, though it is more likely to occur in people whose family members have it. The rash usually consists of scaly red patches that can cause itching. Certain conditions including infection, certain drugs, climate and perhaps hormonal factors and smoking, may trigger attacks.

pyridoxine “vitamin B6”
Necessary for the synthesis and breakdown of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. This vitamin aids in the metabolism of fats and carbohydrates and in the formation of antibodies. Also maintains the central nervous system and the removal of excess fluid of premenstrual women. Promotes healthy skin, reduces muscle spasms, leg cramps, hand numbness, nausea and stiffness of hands. Helps maintain a proper balance of sodium and phosphorous in the body.

Q

quaternary ammonium salts “QUATS”
Quats are used in water repellents, fungicides, emulsifiers, paper and fabric softeners, anti-static agents, and  corrosion inhibitors. Their use in cosmetics, especially in hair conditioners and crème rinses, originated in paper and fabric industries. They are very common in hair conditioners and crème rinses, however, while initially giving a soft feel to hair, they eventually make the hair dry and brittle. They can also cause skin rashes, allergic reactions and environmental harm. The agents in conditioners and crème rinses can build up and coat the hair to such an extent that it takes stronger and harsher shampoos to lift the film. QUATS are comprised of a large number of substances that are used extensively as surfactants and anti-microbial agents. Compounds are quaternaries only if they contain at least one nitrogen atom linked to four alkyl or aryl groups. Many QUATS provide excellent conditioning and anti-static properties making them ideal hair conditioners.

quaternarium 1 – quaternarium 6
Germicide derived from lauric acid. A common constituent of vegetable fats, especially coconut oils. Positively charged with a low irritation potential and effective against a wide range of micro-organisms.

quaternium 7
Surfactant and germicide derived from lauric acid that is effective against a wide range of micro-organisms.

quaternium 15
This is a water-soluble, formaldehyde-releasing, anti-microbial preservative used in cosmetics. Can be sensitizing to skin as can all preservatives. A quaternary ammonium salt. See “quaternary ammonium salts”.

quaternium 19
A preservative used in cosmetics that has anti-microbial benefits. See “quaternary ammonium salts”.

queen’s delight
Root of the American herb “stillingia sylvatica” containing volatile oils, tannins and resins. Used for the treatment of eczema and psoriasis.

quercitol
Sweet crystalling alcohol found in oak bark and in other plants. Used mainly in astringents.

quince seed
Derived from the extract of the quince tree and used in skin and hair care products as a treatment for dry, chapped hands or damaged hair.

R

RBD
Refined, bleached and deodorized.

rebatching
The melting of natural soap base to add extra additives, fragrances and colors that might normally be compromised by the caustic nature of lye during the cold process soapmaking method.

recipe
A list of ingredients in precise quantities with directions for preparing and making soap or other skin care products. In lotion and soapmaking, it is another name for formula or formulation.

red raspberry extract
A non-stimulating extract known as a natural antibiotic. It is soothing and relaxing to inflamed skin and excellent for sensitive skin and relieving irritation caused by acne, shaving or windburn.

refined
The process of removing impurities from the natural or crude base.

remilling soap
Remilled soap involves a mechanical process and often includes the addition of synthetic materials so that the soap mass can flow through the machinery used in the commercial industry.

rendering
The process of heating lard or tallow to a liquid state to remove solids or impurities.

resin
Resin is usually a yellowish brown plant secretion of vegetable origin. Resins are soluble in ether, alcohol and essential oils, but not in water. Resins exude from trees in combination with essential oils and gums and are found in a liquid or semi-liquid state. They are composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and are supposed to be formed by the oxidation of the essential oils. When mixed with gum, they form the gum resins, like asafetida and gamboges. Mixed with essential oils, they form balsams or oleoresins.

resorcinol
Benzene derivative employed in the treatment of acne, ringworm, psoriasis, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis and other cutaneous lesions. Resorcinol is an indirect food additive polymer for use as a basic component of single and repeated use food contact surfaces.

rete ridge
Protection from the epidermis that extends downward to the dermis. Helps anchor the dermis and epidermis.

retin-A
This is a vitamin A derivative that acts as a topical anti-acne treatment and found to be beneficial in removing fine lines from facial skin. Can create photosensitivity.

retinoic acid
A derivative of vitamin A, used to benefit aging skin and in the treatment of the acne. It is used in association with hair growth applications, such as minoxidil.

retinoids/retinol
A series of compounds derived from vitamin A that are found in skin and aid in its normal functioning.

retinoid
Natural or synthetic derivative of vitamin A with a wide range of therapeutic applications.

retinol
Vitamin A acid used to treat fine lines “wrinkles” and acne.

retinyl palmitate
A vitamin A derivative that is included in skin formulations and may improve elasticity and temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines. There is research showing it to be effective as an antioxidant and skin cell regulator. An essential skin nutrient necessary for healthy skin, maintenance and repair. It is useful in cosmetics to moisturize dry skin and reduce excess oil.

riboflavin “vitamin B2”
Works with soluble tyrosine to accelerate tyrosine in tanning products. Produces a characteristic yellow color in lotions. Vitamin B2 is necessary for the maintenance of good vision, skin, nails and hair. Promotes good health.

rose distillate
The distillate water or hydrosol of rose is a widely used skin care product and ingredient. Can be used “as is” on skin, mixed with glycerin or to replace all or part of the water in formation. A skin conditioning agent used in skin fresheners, moisturizers, body care products, masks, cleansers and more.

rose water
Rose water has been used for its cleansing and astringent benefits. Rose water is a liquid with a pleasant smell and is used on the skin as a perfume or as a food flavoring.

rosehip extract
Rich in natural vitamin C, this extract is moisturizing and hydrating to the skin. It can also help protect the skin from capillary damage. Firms and tones skin tissues.

rosemary
Rosemary has stimulating, rejuvenating, astringent, nervine, conditioning and antiseptic properties. It is used in infusions, teas, decoctions, poultices, oils and more. Rosemary has a toning and calming effect on the digestion. It may be used in cases of psychological tension to counteract flatulent dyspepsia, headache or depression associated with debility. Externally, it may be used to ease muscular pain, sciatica and neuralgia. It acts as a stimulant to both the hair follicles and circulation in the scalp and may help combat premature baldness. It has a fragrant smell and a warm, pungent and bitter taste. It is further used in cookery and perfumes.

rosemary extract
Rosemary extract is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent that prevents carcinogens from binding to DNA, and stimulates liver detoxification of carcinogens. This is a powerful, standardized lipid “fat or oil” soluble antioxidant used at only 0.1 percent. Recent studies show that rosemary extract and its constituents, carnosol and ursollic acid, enhance activity of enzymes that can detoxify carcinogens. Extract of rosemary is a natural product frequently used in the food industry to prevent spoilage of foods containing fat and has not shown evidence of accumulating in body tissue. Like other antioxidants, it inhibits and fights free radicals. As an extract, it can be used as a natural diuretic, tonic, decongestant, and a tissue toner and firmer. “see also “rosemary”

rosemary oil
The oil of rosemary possesses powerful antibacterial properties with microbial activity against molds and bacteria including “staphylococcus aureus”. This makes its inclusion valuable in soaps used for pimples, acne, sores and other like conditions. Used for its purifying, cleansing and antiseptic properties. “see also “rosemary”

rosemary oleoresin “rosemary extract”
Use this all-natural preservative to prevent rancidity in your precious fixed or carrier oils. Add a very small amount to liquid oils as soon as you get them or open them to provide long-lasting antioxidant protection.