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| Recipes,
Page 12
This batch is scented with
English Rose and contains real dried chamomile obtained at the grocery
store to make a tea and to add to the batch at trace. Several of the ingredients
seem to accelerate trace, Palm Oil being one of them, so be careful to
have your mold ready for pouring. This is a very mild and gentle moisturizing
bar, great for the bath. |
| INGREDIENTS
Jojoba - 1 Ounce
Castor - 6 Ounces
Cocoa Butter - 2 Ounces
Grapeseed - 1 Ounce
Olive Oil - 30 Ounces
Palm Oil - 30 Ounces
Beeswax - 3 Ounces
Distilled Water brewed to make Chamomile Tea
Lye @10% Discount Factor - we use 9.3 oz
Ground chamomile flowers (to be added at trace)
- 1/8 Cup
English Rose Fragrance (to be added at trace)
- 4 Drops
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| See soapmaking
instructions for additional prep information including gathering equipment,
supplies and ingredients, preparing your work surface and lining your soap
mold. |
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1.
Chamomile
Tea - Like in the other Chamomile Herbal Recipe, measure a little over
23 oz distilled water into a pan or teapot and add an eighth to quarter
cup of chamomile flowers. Heat to a boil and set aside while it brews to
make a fairly aromatic chamomile tea. We use a coffee filter inside a sifter
to strain the chamomile flowers for a clear batch of tea. Set the tea in
the refrigerator to cool. |
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2.
Prepare
mold - This is about the time we line our mold with freezer paper and
set it aside to accept the new batch of soap. |
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2.
Oils
- Meanwhile, we're still limited on the oils we have to choose from for
the large batches of soap that our molds hold. Ultimately, we've chosen
to use Olive and Palm as our main base oils with lesser amounts of one
or more of Castor, Cocoa Butter, Beeswax, Sweet Almond, Grapeseed, Hazelnut
and Jojoba Oils. |
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3.
Weigh
and Melt Oils - Weigh the oils you've chosen into the stainless steel
pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pan and place on the
stove. Use low heat and as the oils are melting, be sure to stir and monitor
the temperature. As you can see, the beeswax beads are the last to melt. |
| Palm oil really
does help to accelerate tracing in soaps. This is especially true if you
are using a large amount in a single formula. It often takes less than
two minutes for our batches to come to trace, barely enough time to add
the fragrance and herbs. You must have your mold(s) ready to accept pouring
almost immediately after mixing the lye mixture and oils together. |
| 4.
Mixing
the Lye and Tea - Weigh 9.3 oz of lye into a lye-safe container. The
tea prepared earlier should have cooled in the refrigerator for at least
an hour. Attach a thermometer to the side of the container and slowly add
lye to the tea until it has fully dissolved. The color probably won't change.
Set the mixture aside to cool. The oils and lye mixture will ultimately
reach a maximum temperature of 160 F or so before they're ready to start
cooling down. While you are waiting, continue to monitor the temperature
of the oils and lye mixture. |
| 5.
The
right temperatures - Wait until the oils and lye mixture have cooled
to between 120 and 130F before combining the two together. At this
point, slowly add the lye mixture to the oils and begin stirring
with your spoon. Do this for a few seconds and then use the stick or hand
blender. Again, it takes about two minutes to come to a serious trace,
so add your herbs and scents in a hurry. Blend them together as well as
you can in the time you have and pour the batch into the mold(s) you've
already prepared. |
See soapmaking
instructions for additional prep information including gathering equipment,
supplies and ingredients, preparing your work surface and lining your soap
mold.
This has turned out to be a hard, mild, very moisturizing
bar of soap. Great for soothing tired dry skin.
Recipes,
Page Twelve - Back to Main |
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