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Rosemary Extract is often used as an antioxidant to effectively slow rancidity in oils and oil based products.  We usually add Rosemary Extract at .1% of total oils to protect the more unstable oils in this formulation from rancidity. 

There are those who say that the saponification process eliminates the need for an antioxidant as the oils are no longer oils, but soap. Others say that the soap made with oils still needs protection regardless of the saponification process, so until this controversy is settled, I prefer to take the safest route.


Coloring Soap
For those of you who want to add color to your soaps, but want to stay natural-more


Lavender Suds

Recipes, Page 5

This is an experimental batch crafted with heavy whipping cream or heavy cream. We were not sure how to add it to a formulation and even less sure that it might work out. However, this recipe produced a hard, wonderfully scented off-white cream colored bar with a generous amount of lather. 

INGREDIENTS

Sweet Almond Oil - 1 Ounce
Canola Oil - 5 Ounces
Cocoa Butter - 1 Ounce
Coconut Oil - 15 Ounces
Grapeseed Oil - 1 Ounce
Hazelnut Oil - 1 Ounce
Jojoba Oil - 1 Ounce
Olive Oil - 15 Ounces
Palm Kernel Oil - 5 Ounces
Palm Oil - 20 Ounces
Shea Butter - 1 Ounce
Sunflower Seed Oil - 1 Ounce

Heavy Cream or Whipping Cream - 6.5 Ounces
Distilled Water - 16.5 Ounces
Lye @10% Discount Factor or 9 Ounces
Lye @5% Discount Factor or 9.5 Ounces

Lavender Essential Oil - Add to desired scent strength
 

See soapmaking instructions for additional prep information including gathering equipment, supplies and ingredients, preparing your work surface and lining your soap mold.
I recommend using any combination or volume of oils, but make sure you run them through a lye calculator. Then, I recommend a ratio of 1 part whipping cream to 3 parts distilled water. Approximately 6.5 oz heavy whipping cream was combined with 16.5 oz distilled water - almost 1/4. The water/whipping cream and lye are processed using the same method as goat milk/water. Directions can be found on our soapmaking page or on one of the goat milk soap recipes.

The mixture will turn a bright yellow in color as the lye is added. The temperature was maintained at below 130F and above 80F. At around 90F, it had a tendency to thicken, so keeping a close eye on it is essential. After the mixture had thickened, it also began to curdle. It was at this point that the remainder of the lye was added (about 1/8) and since the oils were already cooled to approximately 130F, they were combined together the moment the last amount of lye had dissolved.

The batch traced quickly and easily, just like the other recipes and it was ready for cutting within seven hours. As with the Goat Milk Soaps, I did not have to insulate the mold. We tried a sliver using our "hard water" test and the lather was exceptional. 

Note: Even if you are not substituting any of the base oils in our formulations with another oil, be sure to run the entire formula through a lye calculator to ensure that you are using the accurate amount of lye. Do this as a rule, regardless of circumstances. If you make it a habit, you won't go wrong.

Recipes, Page Five - Back to Main or Next Recipe - Bay Rum Cream Soap

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