Mortar and Pestle.net

Glossary – A

abietic acid

This substance is obtained from pine rosin and used as a texturizer in soaps.

abrasives

Abrasives have scrubbing ability and are used in many household cleansing products and for cosmetic purposes. The most frequently used for cosmetic purposes are calcium carbonate “chalk” and di-calcium phosphate dehydrate “toothpaste”.

absolute

Absolutes are a concentrated alcohol-soluble aromatic base. In other words, an unchanged plant extract that has not been modified.

acacia “gum”

This is an odorless, colorless, water-soluble natural gum “gum arabic” extracted from the stem of the acacia tree in Africa. Used as a stabilizer and thickener, this substance is a natural alternative to synthetic polymers including PVP, found in most commercial hair products.

acetamide MEA

The primary purpose of acetamide MEA is to add shine. It is a water-soluble conditioning agent compatible with anionic and non-anionic systems as opposed to quaternary surfactants that are compatible only with cationics.

acetic acid

This is a colorless acid that occurs naturally in vinegars and various fruits and is used as a solvent for oils, fats, and gums. Acetic acid can also be synthetically produced. It is also used primarily as a bleaching agent in lotions and hair dyes. Sometimes used to remove oil from skin.

acetone

This is a colorless, excessively toxic, flammable liquid. Used primarily as solvent in nail polish removers and nail finishes.

acetylated lanolin alcohol

This is a hypoallergenic agent that forms a protective coating on the skin’s surface and helps to prevent moisture loss. It is used to smooth and soften the skin.

acetylcysteine

This is a membrane-permeate substance used in various skin care products. It has potent antioxidant and conditioning properties.

acid

Acids are used to stabilize formulas by lowering the alkaline level to a pH below 7.0.

acid balance

This is the natural pH level of the skin’s moisture.

acid mantle

The acid mantle is an oily protective layer on the skin’s surface that works to protect against environmental impurities. Helps to regulate moisture loss and water retention.

acid rinse

Used for eliminating soap film from hair after shampooing. A mixture of vinegar or lemon juice and water are common acid rinses.

acidic

A substance with a pH less than 7; non-alkaline.

acidophilus

Helps prevent fungus, acne and bad breath.

active ingredient

The active ingredients list is the part of an ingredient label that must adhere to specific regulations mandated by the FDA. Active ingredients must be listed first on an ingredient label. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient is controlled and must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients are considered to have a pharmacological altering effect on skin, and these effects must be documented by scientific evaluation and approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as are contained in sunscreen ingredients, skin lightening agents and benzoyl peroxide. Inactive ingredients commonly include fillers, fragrances or carrier mediums.

adapalene

A new scientifically engineered retinoid molecule for the treatment of acne.

agar

Gelatin-like extracts from various seaweeds that have thickening, emulsifying, and emolliency properties.

AHA “alpha hydroxy acid”

AHAs are derived from milk and from various plant sources. A large percentage of AHAs used in cosmetics, however are synthetically derived. AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are sometimes considered less stable and not as skin-friendly. Despite all the benefits to skin, prolonged use can lead to sun sensitivity. “see also “alpha hydroxy acid”

albumin

A heat-coagulatable, water-soluble globular protein found in egg whites, blood plasma and many other plant and animal tissues. This water soluble protein is used as an emulsifier in cosmetics.

alcohol

Alcohols are organic chemical compounds that are commonly used as emollients, humectants, lubricants, emulsifiers, stabilizers, or tackiness reducers. Alcohols range from clear liquids to waxy solids and can be water-soluble. Alcohols include rubbing alcohol “isopropyl”, ethyl alcohol “drinking alcohol”, or fatty alcohol “cetyl alcohol”. Alcohol may also contain the properties of a sugar “multi alcohol”.

algae extract

Algae extract contains sugars or polysaccharides that are natural humectants and provide moisture to the skin. Polyphenols have antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Frucosterol is good for emolliency, blood stimulation, and moisturizing.

algal polysaccharides

Extracted from red marine algae off the Hawaiian coast, this substance is known to help moisturize and lubricate.

alginates “algins”

Gelatinous substance derived from alginic acids of algae that are used in various cosmetic products as thickeners, emulsifiers, moisturizers and stabilizers.

alginic acid

This is a natural substance from algae from which different salts “algins” are made. It is soluble in water and forms a gelatinous liquid similar to gelatin or albumin.

algisium complex

A natural marine-derived complex that functions as an anti-inflammatory agent.

alizarin “turkey red”

A naturally-occurring crystal derived from madder root. Many dyes and coloring agents are made from this and are varied based on the type of metal powders that are mixed with them. Considered non-toxic, but some irritation is possible.

alkali

One of a class of caustic bases, including soda, potash, ammonia, and lithia that are soluble in alcohol and water. They are used to unite with oils and fats to form soap.

alkaline

A substance with a pH greater than 7; non-acidic.

alkaline soil

Soil with a pH content of more than 7.3

alkanolamines

Alkanolamines are viscous colorless substances composed of alcohol and amines. These are groups of synthetic fatty acids including DEA “diethanolamides”, MEA “monoethanolamides”, MIPA “mono-isopropanolamides”, and ethoxylated or PEG alkanolamides. Used to thicken, gel, boost and stabilize foam, emulsify, soften and soothe, condition skin and hair, opacify, lubricate, bind powder, add skin protective and fungicidal properties and superfatting. Use in shampoos, bubble baths, and liquid skin cleansers. All are said to be harmful to the environment and can become contaminated with nitrosamines. Used as solvents for fatty acids in soapmaking.

allantoin

This is an extract of the comfrey plant and is used for its healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. This extract can be found in anti-acne products, sun care products, and clarifying lotions due to its ability to help heal minor wounds and promote healthy skin.

allergen

Any substance that induces an allergic reaction “immune response” in an organism.

allura, red AC

The common name for uncertified FD&C Red No. 40.

almond meal

Powdered ingredient that acts as an emollient to smooth and soften the skin and an exfoliant to aid in the removal of dead skin cells. Almond meal also has a light bleaching effect.

aloe vera

Aloe vera is available in powder, gel or oil for use in toiletry products. Traditionally used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties, this substance is known as a superb hydrator and soothing agent; beneficial to damaged hair and dry, chapped or sun-exposed skin.

aloe vera gel

A compound expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant, said to have potent anti-inflammatory, healing, hydrating, and soothing properties. No reported toxicity.

alpha hydroxy acids “AHAs”

AHAs include glycolic, citric, malic, and lactic acids found naturally in sugar cane, citrus fruits, and sour milk. AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds them together. AHAs are valued for their ability to help exfoliate and renew cells, even skin tone, and can be effective against wrinkles. Glycolic and lactic acids are thought to be the most effective of all the alpha hydroxy acids. The others may also be effective, but are often considered to be less stable and not as skin friendly. Penetrates the skin very effectively due to small molecules. Prolonged use can lead to sun sensitivity. ““see also AHAs”“

althea

Althea is a botanical root with softening and soothing properties. It is used as a skin emollient.

aluminum acetate

A combination of acetic acid and boric acid with antiseptic and astringent properties. Used in deodorants, astringent lotions, and protective creams.

aluminum powder

The non-toxic metal element of aluminum used in paints and pigments.

amino acids

Any one of a class of simple organic compounds containing carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and in certain cases, sulfur. These compounds are the building blocks of proteins. They are characterized by the presence of a carboxyl group “COOH” and an amino group “NH2” attached to the same carbon at the end of the compound. Amino acids are released in the intestinal tract by the digestion of food proteins and are then carried in the bloodstream to the body cells, where they are used for growth, maintenance, and repair. Cellular catabolism breaks amino acids down into smaller fragments. Many of the amino acids necessary in metabolism can be synthesized in the human body when needed; these are called “nonessential”. Others cannot be synthesized in sufficient quantities; these are termed “essential” and must be provided in the diet. Amino acids are rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream, and in combination with vitamins, provide essential nutrients to a wound area to promote healing.

aminomethyl propanedial

An alkalizer/neutralizer used to adjust pH in cosmetic preparations.

aminomethyl propanol

A thickener and gelling agent.

ammonium iodide

White, colorless salt that turns yellow when exposed to light. Often used as a preservative for its antibacterial properties.

ammonium laureth sulfate

This is a mild, primary anionic surfactant that is widely used in shampoos and shower gels. A basic surfactant.

ammonium lauryl sulfate

This can be derived from coconut and is used primarily as a gentle and effective detergent cleansing agent. This is an anionic surfactant, widely used as a cleansing agent in relatively mild shampoos for normal to normal to oily hair.

ammonium stearate “stearic acid”

This is a yellow-white powder often used as a texturizer in lotions and creams. No known toxicity. “see also “stearic acid”“

amplifier

An amplifier works on the skin’s surface and is designed to increase the absorption of UV light by the skin.

amylase

This is an enzyme prepared from the pancreas of a hog. It is used as a texturizer in cosmetic preparations.

amylopectin

This is a polysaccharide that is the “almost insoluble” outer portion of the starch granule. Primarily used as a texturizer in cosmetic preparations.

anaerobic

An organism that lives and grows in the absence of oxygen.

androgen

An androgen is a hormone that stimulates the sebaceous glands to increase sebum production.

anionic detergent

Any of a class of synthetic compounds whose anions are alkali salts, as soap; or whose ions are ammonium salts.

anti-body

A molecule produced by B cells. It circulates in the bloodstream and neutralizes the antigens that are considered to be harmful invaders of the immune system.

anti-bacterial

A substance that creates an environment that is hostile to bacteria.

anti-fungal

A substance that checks the growth of spores, molds or fungi.

antigen

A harmful invader of the immune system. This substance can trigger an immune response, resulting in the production of antibodies as part of the body’s immune system.

anti-infective

Reduces the growth of bacteria.

anti-microbial

A substance that kills disease-causing microorganisms.

antioxidant

Substances that slow the breakdown of nutrients and counteract the destructive effect of free radicals “oxidation” in the body. Many vitamins have antioxidant properties including vitamins A, C, and E, as do amino acids including methionine, K-cysteine, and L-carnitine; enzymes such as superoxide dismutase and ecatalase; and co-enzymes such as alpha lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10. Other antioxidant compounds include glutathione and methylsufonylsulfate. Helps protect the skin from environmental damage caused by free radicals. Antioxidants are also used to prevent the oxidation of oils used in cosmetic preparations.

anti-seborrheic

A substance that controls the excessive secretion of sebum, and reduces oiliness of the face and scalp, a common condition in adolescents.

anti-septic

A substance or property that stops the growth of bacteria.

arachidyl propionate

A skin softener and humectant obtained from coal and limestone to promote the retention of moisture in the skin.

arnica extract

Used as an astringent to remove oil from the skin and to treat skin disorders. Arnica, with its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, has also been used externally to treat bruises and sprains.

aromatherapy

The practice of using essential oils for physical and emotional therapeutic effects. Essential oils of plants have numerous properties and various scents that affect us on a mental, emotional, spiritual and physical level.

aromatic

Having a noticeable scent or smell.

arrow root

A very finely textured powder, high in starch that may be included in cosmetic applications as a paste to help dry blemishes or in a body powder as a replacement for talc.

ascorbic acid “vitamin C”

Naturally occurring in fruits and green vegetables, vitamin C is essential for normal metabolism, wound healing, and tissue repair. Ascorbic acid is often used as a preservative in food and cosmetic preparation and as an antioxidant to help prevent free radical damage to the skin. Considered non-toxic and not irritating to skin.

ascorbyl palmitate

Salt of ascorbic acid used as a preservative and antioxidant in cosmetic creams.

ascorbyl stearate

Salt of ascorbic acid used as a preservative and antioxidant in cosmetic creams.

astringent

A solution that removes oil from the skin. Usually used following a facial to remove remaining traces of a cleanser. Designed to dry and shrink superficial tissues by reducing water and oil content.