Mortar and Pestle.net

Glossary – S, T, U, V

S

sage

Sage has stimulating, rejuvenating and antiseptic properties. Helps heal skin erruptions, check perspiration and stimulates the skin.

sage extract

A tonic and curative herb with astringent and healing properties. Obtained by extraction from the flowering tops of the plants.

sage oil

This is an astringent, antiseptic oil used for its sedating and calming effects on the skin.

salicylic acid

Occurs naturally in wintergreen leaves, sweet birch and selected plants. This beta hydroxy acid improves the appearance and condition of the skin and has micro-exfoliating action causing exfoliation. Also used as an anti-microbial in medicine.

salt, coarse “sodium chloride or NaC1”

Coarse salt is white in color and the crystals are considerable larger than table salt, and rounded in shape. Used in bath salts.

salt, organic sea

An organic ingredient for bath salts.

salt dendritic

This is a highly purified sodium chloride which has been crystallized under special conditions. A trace “less than 3 ppm” of yellow prussiate of soda is added to modify the way the salt crystals grow. The crystals grow at the corners rather than the faces, which produces star-shaped crystals. Only sodium chloride will fit into this crystal matrix, leaving incredibly pure salt crystals with micro pores in them. The yellow prussiate of soda is removed before the crystals are dried. It is a natural fine grain salt which absorbs essential oils and fragrance oils twice as efficiently as other salts used in bath mixes. It is specially formulated to prevent caking, add flow ability and is great to use with your other bath, mineral, or sea salts to help keep the scent longer. It absorbs essential and fragrance oils better than regular salt, helping to stabilize products for a longer, more fragrant shelf life.

salt, dulse sea

A blend of sea salt and organic dulse powder, dulse sea salt is very pretty in appearance, similar to cinnamon sugar. A wonderful new ingredient for bath salts, seltzers, and salt scrubs.

salt, extra fine organic sea

Refined fine sea salt that has the same size granules as table salt and is pure white in color. Used in bath salts and salt scrubs. Meets USDA, FDA and FCC requirements for food use. Ingredients – salt, magnesium carbonate. An organic ingredient for bath salts, seltzers and salt scrubs. Fast dissolving due to small crystal size.

salicyclic acid

The active ingredient in aspirin used in cosmetics as an antiseptic and preservative.

salve

Healing ointment or semi-solid preparation that usually contains medicine. A salve is applied externally as a remedy or to sooth an irritation.

sandalwood oil

A powerful antibiotic and antiseptic used to treat infections, reduce puffiness, soothe and heal.

sap value

This is a figure used to calculate the amount of potassium hydroxide needed to make liquid soap of selected oils each with its own “often distinct” sap value. Potassium hydroxide is used to make soft soap, while sodium hydroxide is used to make hard soap. However the numbers given and used to make hard soaps are not true sap values. Often, a supplier will provide “sap values” for both potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide.

saponaria extract

Also known as soapwort and fuller’s herb, this extract foams like lather and is used as a natural foaming cleanser for the skin.

saponification

The chemical reaction that converts a fatty acid “oils” and an alkali “sodium hydroxide” into soap when combined in the proper ratio within a specific temperature range. In other words, the process or reaction of combining a base “fat” with an alkali “SH” to produce a salt “soap” and a free alcohol “glycerin”.

saponin

Natural glycosides that foam in water. A mild natural detergent. Any plant cell derived glycoside with soapy action that can be digested to yield a sugar and sapogenin aglycone. Saponin is used to solubilize membrane proteins.

saponins “quillia extract”

Many plants “soap plants” contain substances called saponins which form a natural lather in water that is a gentle, but effective natural cleanser and some have been used as an alternative to soap.

sarsparilla

Useful in scaling skin conditions such as psoriasis and for the correction of systemic problems such as skin and rheumatoid arthritic conditions.

saturated fats

A fat usually of animal origin that becomes saturated when fatty acid chains cannot accommodate any more hydrogen atoms.

scale

Accumulation of stratum corneum corneocytes “scaly, dry, whitish or brown skin”. Scale is a common feature of many skin diseases, including atopic dermatitis, dry skin and ichthyosis.

scar

A dense fibrotic tissue formed on the skin following repair after injury or disease.

SD “specially denatured”

Government required prefix with ethyl alcohol to signify it is unfit for human consumption. SD 40 for instance, contains bitrox, one of the bitterest substances known.

SD 40 Alcohol

Used primarily in hair sprays as a resin solvent.

sea salt

Useful exfoliant in body scrubs to help soften and soothe the body.

sea kelp

A large coarse seaweed that is used as a skin soother and source of iodine.

seaweed

A plant with gelatin-like, moisture-retaining properties. A main ingredient in peel-off moisturizing masks. Used in face creams and lotions as a thickening agent. Also makes a great nutritional supplement because of the minerals and vitamins within the seaweed.

sebaceous glands

Glands in the skin that open into hair follicles from which sebum is secreted.

sebacic acid

A white crystalline acid, COOH”CH2”8COOH, used as a pH adjuster.

seborrhea

Increased sebum secretion implicated in the pathogenesis of acne.

sebum

Secretion of the sebaceous glands, also known as skin oil. A viscous, pale yellow natural oil secretion of the sebaceous glands in the skin and scalp that lubricate and protect. They are also implicated in the pathogenesis of acne. Contains squalene, waxes and cholesterol.

seizing “as in soap”

In soapmaking, seizing is the unexpected thickening and uneven hardening of a soap mixture during processing. Often caused by adding synthetic fragrance or other additives to the mixture.

selenium

A major antioxidant nutrient that protects cell membranes and prevents free radical generation thereby reducing the risk of cancer and disease. Selenium also preserves tissue elasticity, slows down the aging and hardening of tissues through oxidation and helps in the treatment and prevention of dandruff.

selenium protein complex “biomin S-P-C”

Neutralizers free radicals on the skin and serves as a counter irritant.

sensitizer

An ingredient that causes the skin to become sensitive to other ingredients or the environment. A sensitizer also refers to an ingredient that causes the skin to redden, swell, blister or itch.

sequestrant

A substance to hold “as a metallic ion” in solution usually by inclusion in an appropriate coordination complex.

shelf life

The length of time a product can be expected to remain fresh.

silica “silicon dioxide”

Used for its absorbent, anti-caking and abrasive properties.

silica microbeads

Silica microbeads function as a heat resistant carrier molecule “a delivery system with unique carrying abilities” because of their ability to hold and absorb material. They also impart a smoothness and resilient texture to the skin, as they possess a “ball-bearing”, silky emolliency.

silicone

A compound of silicon used in shine-enhancing hair products to seal the cuticle of hair and in many oil-free cosmetics.

silk amino acids

Low odor, water-soluble cosmetic-grade silk protein that functions as hair and skin conditioning agents. Free amino acids hydrolyzed from pure silk fibers, penetrate to bind moisture in skin and hair. Use in moisturizers, shampoos, conditioners, hair grooming products and soaps. When added to soap, it provides a lovely soft silky feel to the lather. Use at 1.0 to 10.0%. A natural water-soluble source of acid derived from liquid silk. These acids help moisture penetrate the skin “aid in absorption” and aid in skin healing. Used skin and hair products, powder, and color makeup. “see also “amino acids”

silk protein

Protein substance formed by converting silk, which is the soft, lustrous thread obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm. Silk protein can have water-binding properties for skin. However, whether the protein applied to skin is derived from animals or plants, the skin can’t tell the difference. There is a small amount of research showing silk protein to have topical antioxidant properties.

soap

Cleansing agent that is a sodium or potassium salt of animal or vegetable fat. A cleanser that works by making the surface of the skin wet and by holding on to dirt so it can be rinsed away. Soap is actually a salt produced by a chemical reaction called saponification involving the combination of fatty acids and sodium hydroxide. A cleansing material made of oils, detergents, and fragrance, used on skin. Comes in many forms including bar soap, liquid soap, gels and flakes. “True soaps” are unregulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and are not required to list ingredients on the label. They are solely made up of fats and an alkali. Many bar cleansers are not soaps, but contain synthetic detergent cleansing agents and various thickening agents that keep the bar in its bar form.

soap bark

A perennial herb used as a natural cleanser.

sodium alginate

Natural compound used as a thickener and emulsifier in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics.

sodium ascorbate

Used in cosmetics as an antioxidant and preservative.

sodium bicarbonate

Commonly known as “baking soda”, this white crystalline powder is commonly used in bath preparations as a water softener, but also has many other common uses in the household.

sodium bisulphite

This artificial chemical is used as a hair relaxer and as a preservative.

sodium borate

Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, preservative and detergent builder.

sodium C14 – 16 olefin suffonate

Surfactant derived from coconut oil that is used in “soapless” shampoos.

sodium carbonate

Used in cosmetics as a humectant and an alkalizer.

sodium cetyl sulfate

A water-soluble derivative of saturated fatty alcohol.

sodium chloride

A purified common table salt used for its natural cleansing, toning, refreshening, astringent, antiseptic and moisture absorption properties.

sodium citrate

Crystalline salt used in cosmetics as a sequestrant and an alkalizer, and in foods as a buffering agent.

sodium cocoate

Saponified coconut oil, the sodium salt of coconut oil.

sodium hydroxide

Also known as lye, caustic soda and NaOH, this alkali is used to make hard soap. It is produced by the electrolysis of brine “seawater”. It has a pH of around 12 and is a strong alkaline compound.

sodium hydroxymethylglycinate

An organic preservative derived from the amino acid “glycine”.

sodium laureth – 13 carboxylate

An anionic surfactant that increases the cleansing power of some shampoos.

sodium lauryl sulfate

A very popular ingredient used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfactant in over a thousand cosmetic products including shampoos, toothpaste, lotions and creams. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent, SLS can be derived from coconut. Although it is a potent skin irritant, it is not toxic or dangerous for skin. In concentrations of 2% to 5%, SLS can cause allergic sensitizing reactions in many people.

sodium myristoyl sarcosinate

A very mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.

sodium palmitate

Saponified palm oil or the sodium salt of palm oil.

sodium PCA

Occurs naturally in human skin and is responsible for binding moisture to the cells. It is highly water absorbent and can hold several times its weight in water. This makes it an excellent choice as a humectant.

sodium stearate

Saponified stearic acid or the sodium salt of stearic acid.

sodium tallowate

Salt of tallow, an animal fat. Sodium is a major mineral involved in maintaining our body’s acid base balance, fluid retention and nerve impulse transmission.

sodium trideceth sulfate

A wetting agent used in shampoo preparations, including baby shampoos.

solar sea salts

Sun evaporated sea salts from seawater that are not mined or mechanically processed. This method preserves the natural mineral content.

soluble

Dissolvable in a liquid as in alcohol-soluble, oil-soluble or water-soluble.

solvent

Liquid substance used to dissolve or disperse other substances.

solvent extracted

Using a solvent like benzene or butane to obtain the essential oils from a plant.

solvent extraction

A method of separating oils from their base using a liquid in which the oil is soluble. The oil is then distilled and the solvent is evaporated, leaving the oil.

sorbitan stearate “sorbitan monostearate”

Used mainly as an emulsifier and thickener in lotions and creams. Also used as a stabilizer of essential oils.

sorbitol

A synthetically or naturally derived humectant that can be found naturally in ripe berries, seaweed and algae. Gives a velvety feel to skin. Similar to glycerin, sorbitol is also a thickening agent.

soy extract

Said to possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents to benefit skin.

soy protein

An antioxidant and immune booster that is said to help with menopause and may help to prevent cancer.

specific gravity

The ratio of weight of a given volume of a substance, relative to the weight of an identical volume of water. For instance, the specific gravity of water is 1, which equates to 1 fluid ounce of water that weighs 1 ounce.

SPF

SPF stands for “sun protection factor” that is represented by numbers ranging from 2 to 45 with 2 being the least protection and 45 the most. The representative number provides the number of minutes you can remain in the sun before burning, without wearing SPF multiplied by the number of minutes you can stay in the sun, wearing SPF. Therefore, if you start to burn naturally within 10 minutes after being exposed to the sun and you apply SPF 15 sunscreen, your protection while wearing the product increases to 150 minutes.

squalene

A topical emollient used in skin care products that is easy to spread and soothing to the skin. Squalene is found in small quantities in human sebum, but is typically derived from shark-liver oil.

steam distillation

A process in which essential oils are extracted from plant materials using steam and pressure and the volatile oils are separated from the hydrosol or floral water following condensation.

stearalkonium chloride

This is a cationic surfactant that reduces static electricity by neutralizing electrical charges on hair. Considered an effective conditioning agent.

stearamidopropyl dimethyamine

This water-soluble derivative of stearic acid has unique properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH levels.

steareth 2, -4, -7, -10, -20,-30

Steareths are used in lotions as emulsifiers. The number indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 on the thin side to 100 on the solid side.

stearic acid

A waxy fatty acid obtained from animal and vegetable fats that is widely used in soaps and other cosmetic products. Binds and thickens creams and creates harder bars of soap. Use approximately 2% in emulsions. Used for its emollient properties and as a moisturizing agent.

stearyl alcohol

An emulsion stabilizer that also adds body to a lotion.

sterile

Aseptic or free from living microorganisms.

sterols

Any of various solid steroid alcohols like cholesterol that are widely distributed in animal and plant lipids.

stinging nettle

A plant rich in minerals and plant hormones used in soapmaking and many herbal preparations.

stratum corneum

The topmost layer or surface epidermis cells.

stretch marks

Stretch marks appear when skin cells have become damaged by the stretching of skin tissue that commonly occurs during pregnancy or rapid weight gain. The damaged cells may have stopped producing collagen and elastin, resulting in permanent damage to the skin.

striae

Skin stretch marks.

stearyl alcohol

A natural fatty alcohol similar to cetyl alcohol derived mainly from coconut oil.

subcutaneous

Just beneath the skin’s epidermis and dermis.

subcutis

Subcutaneous tissue

sugar

Often used in recipes for making clear soap, but make sure you add any sugar before mixing the lye or fats, or it may not dissolve.

sulfate

Artificial liquid made with sulfated oils and often used to make manufactured soaps and detergents. Said to be harmful to marine life and the environment.

superfat, superfatting, superfatted

The addition of extra oils or butters that remain unsaponified within the finished soap to contribute to its moisturizing properties.

surfactant

Surface active agent that is used to mix water with oils and reduce the surface tension of a liquid in which it is dissolved, such as a detergent. Also a material that helps oil and water to mix so that the two will not separate and will remain a smooth, stable cream or lotion, as an emulsifier. Surfactants are considered to be inexpensive synthetic agents that make up the base of most liquid soaps and shampoos. They can be harsh on hair and skin. Many of the harsh surfactants deplete natural fats and phospholipids form the epidermis that subsequently weakens skin allowing toxins and bacteria to invade. Sulfates used to manufacture these synthetic surfactants are harmful to marine life and the environment. There are 4 types of surfactants including anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic, and cationic.

sulfur

Sulfur accelerates peeling of the skin “micro-exfoliant” and has an antiseptic action on the skin surface when applied topically. It is particularly suitable for skin prone to breakout and congestion.

sunscreen

Products with ingredients that absorb UVA and UVB rays. Sunscreens that are labeled as “broad spectrum” provide maximum protection.

sunblock

Products that reflect all the sun’s rays and permit minimal tanning, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

superoxide dismutase

A naturally-occurring enzyme that works against skin dryness and hair loss. Protects skin from free radicals. Commonly used in supplements and in skin and hair products.

synthetic

Artificially produced. Not of natural origin.

T

tartaric acid

A type of glycolic acid or fruit acid derived from applies. Can improve skin tone and texture.

tartrazine

A common name for uncertified FD&C Yellow No. 5, an artificially produced dye “see also “FD&C colors”

TEA “triethanolamine”

Used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, an emulsifier, a preservative, and in soap formulations. May be harmful when contaminated by nitrasamines. Produced by ammonolysis of ethylene oxide. An alkanomine used as part of an emulsion system in conjunction with organic acids like stearic acid. Neutralizes carbomer solutions to form gels. Neutralizes stearic acid to form anionic emulsions and acts as an alkalizing agent to control pH. Also serves as a softener in hair spray and pH adjuster in transparent soap.

TEA laureth sulfate

A triethanolamine salt of ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic surfactant “active molecules bearing negative electric charges” compatible with amphoterics “agents that allow oil to mix with water”. This is a very effective, but mild cleansing agent.

TEA lauryl sulfate

Very popular shampoo ingredient and used as a synthetic detergent. A combination of triethanolamine and the sale of lauryl sulfuric acid. Similar to TEA laureth sulfate. See also “TEA laureth sulfate”.

tea tree oil

A natural preservative with antiseptic and germicidal properties used in soaps, shampoos and skin care products. Also known as “melaleuca”. Considered to be a powerful antiseptic, anti-fungal, anti-viral, insect repellent often used to treat minor infections, minor burns, cuts, golden staph, cold sores, pimples and acne. Its remarkable soothing and antibacterial properties can also be used to treat common skin conditions and damaged hair. This useful cleansing agent is said to help combat foot odor and athlete’s foot. More applications of tea tree oil are still being discovered. May cause irritation to sensitive skin. See also “melaleuca”.

tetrasodium EDTA

Same as sodium EDTA, a chelating agent that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water to make them water-soluble. A water softener and bonding agent that links with minerals to prevent them from causing microbial growth.

thiamine “vitamin B1”

Plays a key role in helping the body generate energy. Aids in the digestion of carbohydrates and essential for the normal functioning of the nervous system. It stabilizes the appetite and promotes the growth of good muscle tone.

thickening agent

There are literally thousands of ingredients in this category that give each and every lotion, cream, lipstick, foundation, and mascara, as well as other cosmetic products, their own distinctive feel and form. These are substances that can have a soft to hard waxlike texture or a creamy emollient feel. They are often also great lubricants.

tincture

The term tincture “also called alcoholic tincture, and spirituous tincture” is reserved for the alcoholic solutions of nonvolatile substances. Alcoholic solutions of volatile substances are called spirits. A solution “commonly colored” of medicinal substance in alcohol, usually more or less diluted.

titanium dioxide

Inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. Widely used as a white pigment and opacifier. Can be used in soap as a white color or mixed with other pigments to obtain light and pastel shades. Titanium dioxide is what is added to transparent melt and pour soap to make it opaque. No known toxicity for dermal use. Titanium dioxide is an inorganic natural material, which functions as a sunblock to both UVA and UVB rays. A non-chemical, common agent used in sunscreen products that work by physically blocking the sun. It may be used alone or in combination with other agents. It is available as normal and micronized form.

tocopherol “vitamin E”

Any of the four forms “alpha-, beta-, delta- or gamma-” of vitamin E, an antioxidant added to soaps and lotions as an emollient due to its moisturizing properties. Alpha tocopherol has the greatest amount of vitamin E and accumulates in the epidermis to form a barrier against moisture evaporation from the skin. An antioxidant, vitamin E helps prevent free radical damage in the skin tissues. “see also “vitamin E”

tocopherol acetate “vitamin E”

Major antioxidant nutrient that retards cellular aging due to oxidation and aids in bringing nourishment to cells. Also strengthens the capillary walls to prevent the red blood cells from destructive poisons. Aids against dry skin. “see also “vitamin E”

tocopheryl linoleate “vitamin E”

A substance that helps prevent stiffening of the stratum corneum as a result of UV exposure. Provides the skin with linoleic acid, one of the major essential fatty acids. Accumulates in the epidermis and forms a barrier against moisture evaporation from the skin. An antioxidant, vitamin E helps prevent free radical damage in skin tissues. Major antioxidant nutrient that retards cellular aging due to oxidation. Aids in bringing nourishment to cells, strengthens capillary walls and prevents red blood cells from destructive poisons. Aids against dry skin. “see also “vitamin E”

tocopheryl nicotinnate

Increases blood supply at the surface of the skin without irritation.

toner

Product that is used after cleansing to help return the skin to its natural pH. A toner also helps remove dirt or debris from the skin.

tonic

A substance taken to strengthen and prevent disease, especially chronic disease. Improves function of an organ or tissue. A product that nurtures, enlivens, and/or returns the normal tone to an organ or tissue “like skin”.

top notes

Essential oils that are classified as top notes normally evaporate very fast and typically have anti-viral properties. They tend to be light, fresh and uplifting in nature and are usually inexpensive. Top notes are highly volatile, fast acting, and give the first impression of the blend. However, they are not very long lasting.

trace

This is the stage in the process of soapmaking when the soap reaches the consistency of an almost thick pudding. A point in soapmaking when the mixture reaches a certain consistency or thickness most noticeable when the soap is drizzled upon itself and leaves a trail before disappearing back into the mixture. At this point, the solution is already 80% – 90% saponified. Essential oils, superfatting oils, colors, and other additives can be added without substantial altering of their characteristics during the remainder of the saponification process.

transparent soap

Superfatted soap with a high glycerin content that is usually used for sensitive and normal to oily skin.

tretinoin

A derivative of vitamin A used as a topical treatment for the prevention and treatment of acne.

TRF “tissue respiratory factor”

This skin care complex is composed of amino acids, mono- and disaccharides, vitamins, phosphorus containing compounds, nucleosides and nucleotides. TRF substances are produced by living cells “like yeast” upon injury and may serve as healing agents to stimulate collagen and elastin production, and regenerate cells on the lower levels of the skin.

triclosan

An active broad-spectrum antibacterial agent that kills bacteria on the skin’s surface. Shown to kill the bacteria associated with acne.

trideceth-6

Used as a thickening agent or emulsifier.

triethanolamine

See “TEA”.

triethyl citrate

A derivative of citric acid, triethyl citrate gives pliability to fixatives. Fixatives may be decalcifying and/or hardening agents.

triglyceride

This is a naturally-occurring ester of fatty acids and glycerol used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Chief component of fats and oils. A type of blood fat.

trisodium EDTA

A preservative, sequestering agent and chelating agent of sodium salt.

trisodium etidronate

Used as a preservative.

tristearin

This is a triglyceride of stearic acid and used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.

turbinado sugar

Unrefined raw cane sugar, used in sugar scrubs and body polishes.

turkey red oil

Sulfated castor oil that is dispensable in water. Good for bath oils.

U

ultramarine blue

This is an inorganic pigment with excellent heat stability, light fastness, easily dispersed and non-toxic. Gives lovely shades of royal blue in soap. Can be mixed in with a little soap prior to trace, but for best dispersion, mix with water and add to soap at the beginning. Can be mixed with other pigments to obtain various shades.

ultramarine pink

Inorganic pigment with excellent heat stability, light fastness, easily dispersed and non-toxic. Use to get lovely shades of pink in soap. Can be mixed with a little soap prior to trace, but for best dispersion, mix with water and add to soap at the beginning of the process. Can be mixed with other pigments for more color options.

ultramarine violet

Inorganic pigment with excellent heat stability, light fastness, easily dispersed and non-toxic. Use to get lovely shades of violet and mauve in soap. Can be mixed with a little soap prior to trace, but for best dispersion, mix with water and add to soap at the beginning of the process. Can be mixed with other pigments for more color options.

ultraviolet

See “UV”.

unscented

Contains no added fragrance as in “fragrance free”.

urea

Chief waste products of the body. The kidneys flush the waste from the body in the form of urea which is in the urine. The synthetic form is widely used in cosmetics as a moisturizer.

uticaria

A skin condition commonly known as hives. Raised white lumps surrounding a red area of inflammation.

UV “ultraviolet radiation”

The invisible spectrum of solar radiation divided into three regions with increasing danger to the skin.

UVA “ultraviolet light – type A”

Rays of light from the sun that are not visible, but can cause damage to the skin ““the sun aging rays”“. Approximate wavelength: 320 to 400 nanometers. UVA rays penetrate deeply into the skin.

UVB “ultraviolet light – type B”

Rays of light from the sun that are not visible, but can cause damage to the skin. Approximately wavelength: 285 to 320 nanometers. They cause cellular damage to the outer layer of skin.

USP “United States Pharmacopoeia”

The abbreviation USP stands for United States Pharmacopoeia, a document first published in 1820 by the Medical Society of New York State. Recognized as official by Congress in 1848, this document was used as a standard reference by physicians for prescribing medicines. Today, the USP includes chemical descriptions, identifying tests, and purity tests, primarily for active ingredients. All materials listed in the USP are considered drugs by law and subject to all the US Food & Drug Administration requirements pertaining to drugs. Labeling a product or a substance as USP implies that it conforms to all the legal requirements of the FDA and that it was produced in accordance with the principles outlined in FDA’s Good Manufacturing Practices “GMP”. A new edition of the USP is published every five years in the years ending in “0″ and “5,” with ongoing revisions and additions issued during the interim years.

V

vehicle

When referring to topical dermatological drugs, it is the medium in which the active ingredient is formulated.

vegetable glycerin

Rich, humectant, emollient and lubricant naturally extracted from vegetable oils, used in cosmetic formulations for thousands of years.

vegetable protein

Termed “the building blocks of life”, protein is our most important food and leading source of vitamins and essential amino acids. Generally found in meats, eggs, and dairy products, protein can also be obtained from soy, wheat and other plant sources. Applied topically, vegetable protein is an excellent hydrator, readily absorbed by the skin for improved texture. In hair care formulas, it combines with fatty acids and amino acids to coat porous or damaged hair and split ends.

vegetable shortening

Solid fat made from vegetable oils, converted into a solid state through hydrogenation. Made primarily from soybean oil, but other oils such as cottonseed oil are often added.

vegetable stearate

A salt of stearic acids derived from vegetables.

viscosity

The thickness or thinness or stickiness of a product or substance. If a substance has a low viscosity, it is thinner and tends to flow more easily while a high viscosity substance is thicker and less fluid.

vitamin A “beta carotene”

Fat-soluble vitamin used to treat rough, dry skin, including psoriasis. It has also been used as a topical acne treatment. Vitamin A can be obtained from fish oil liver, liver, carrots, green and yellow vegetables, eggs, milk, and dairy products, margarine and yellow fruits. It prevents vitamin C from being oxidized too soon in the body. Normal dosages are harmless. Vitamin A, used topically has been shown to balance and normalize the skin, helping to keep it clear and healthy. Particularly beneficial for dry or sun-exposed skin. Often found in sun protection creams for its soothing and hydrating properties. A vitamin A deficiency in the body reduces the mucopolysaccharides in the skin, which accelerates the skin’s aging process. A lack of vitamin A can cause skin to become dry and hardened.

vitamin A derivatives “retinoids”

“retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate”
Vitamin A derivatives such as retin-A can help prevent and reverse sun damage. They also have exfoliating and skin strengthening properties and are used clinically in the treatment of severe cystic acne, psoriasis, and other disorders of keratinization.

vitamin B complex

Eleven different vitamins known as B complex include thiamin “B1” riboflavin “B2”, niacin “B3”, folic acid “B9”, biotin, pantothenic acid or panthenol “B5”, pyridoxine “B6”, choline, inositol, PABA, and cyanocobalamin “B12”. These antioxidants and body regulators work better together than alone. Water-soluble vitamins that when applied topically, help balance and normalize the skin and keep it clear and healthy. Since B vitamins are the regulators of the metabolic functions of our body, they are important to skin cell respiration. Calcium D – pantothenate and inositol are the two B complex vitamins that are most beneficial to skin and hair.

vitamin B1
See “thiamine”
vitamin B2
See “riboflavin”
vitamin B3
See “niacin”
vitamin B5
See “pantothenic acid”
vitamin B6
See “pyridoxine”
vitamin B9
See “folic acid”

vitamin B12 “cobalamin”

Vitamin B12 helps in the formation and regeneration of red blood cells, thus helping prevent anemia.

vitamin C “ascorbic acid”

Vitamin C can preserve cosmetics both in the water phase and in its fat-soluble form. It plays an important role in building collage, the connective tissue that holds us together. Vitamin C is essential for healthy teeth, gums, and bones, helps heal wounds, scar tissue, and fractures. Prevents scurvy, builds resistance to infections, aids in the prevention treatment of the common cold, gives strength to blood vessels, aids in the absorption of iron. It is required for the synthesis of collagen, the intercellular cement that holds tissues together. It is also one of the major antioxidant nutrients It prevents the conversion of nitrates “from tobacco smoke, smog, bacon, lunchmeats and some vegetables” into cancer-causing substances. Moreover, vitamin C has been shown to help slow the production of hyperpigmentation or age spots while providing some UV protection.

vitamin D

Vitamin D is necessary for healthy bones and teeth, for proper assimilation and body balances of calcium and phosphorous, and for preventing rickets. It is fat-soluble and not sensitive to heat, light or oxygen.

vitamin E

Vitamin E is a major antioxidant nutrient that retards cellular aging due to oxidation. It supplies oxygen to the blood which is then carried to the heart and other organs, thus alleviating fatigue. Aids in bringing nourishment to cells, strengthens the capillary walls prevents red blood cells from destructive poisons, prevents or dissolves blood clots, used by doctors in helping prevent sterility, muscular dystrophy, calcium deposits in blood walls and heart conditions.

vitamin E oil “T-50”

Vitamin E oil is used as an antioxidant in lotions, lotion bars, massage oils, salves, balms and soaps.

vitamin F

Consists of linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids, the three essential fatty acids. Vitamin F acts as a skin protector and revitalizer. Used in moisturizers, it soothes rough, dry or chapped skin on contact and helps soften and revitalize dry or damaged hair. The name usually used for vitamin F is essential fatty acids “EFAs”. This vitamin helps form the membranes that protect the skin cells, preventing the formation of dry, scaly skin.

vitamin H

See “biotin”

vitamin K

Needed for normal blood clotting, vitamin K may help protect against osteoporosis and may inhibit some cancer tumors. Also aids in reducing excessive menstrual flow. Vitamin K occurs primarily in plants and is also sensitized by intestinal bacteria in the small intestine. It is fat-soluble and sensitive to light, oxygen, strong acids and alcoholic alkalis.

vitamin P

See “bioflavonoids”

volatile oil

Active aromatic oils in plants that evaporate readily.